Third Stop 15/04/2015 to 21/04/2015 (written by us) Having already spent a full week in Vietnam we were getting into the swing of the travelling lifestyle. Another day, another hotel room, another Vietnamese city. We weren't getting bored by any means but certainly accustomed to our context. Hoi An, however, is like nowhere else! This small town is a little taste of China nestled discretely into the central Vietnamese coastline. Only a short road trip from Da Nang, Hoi An has firmly established itself as a tourist trap for those in the know and today sports more souvenir shops and hotels than any other industry. That said the town is drenched in tradition and authenticity from a different time and place. |
Like the historically wealthy European cities of Paris and Florence, one need only wander the characterful pedestrian streets of the Old Town to be in awe and admiration of the beauty which has been meticulously embroidered into these old building. The entire area of the Old Town is now protected by UNESCO and as such authenticity abounds. |
Originally a port town in the 18th and 19th centuries Hoi An was a centre for shipping and trade hosting visitors from across the globe. In turn many of the wealthy visitors, particularly the Chinese, adopted Hoi An as their new home building grand houses, ethnic assembly halls and temples in their own traditional style. The result is a magical and mystical mix of Oriental charm and serenity dotted among the typical Vietnamese hustle and bustle.
We began our time in Hoi An arriving at our home-stay. The equivalent of a B&B we were staying with "Mr Lucky" and family on the outskirts of the town. First rule, shoes off in the house and we were directed to a pile of western looking runners and flip-flops strewn to the right-hand side of the front door. This is a long time tradition of Vietnamese households which persists today. Once settled into our new accommodation it was time to explore.
Our first stop was the street of Tran Phu which bisects the Old Town centre. Here we caught our first glimpse of Hoi An's many treasures. The Assembly Hall of the Hainan Chinese Congregation, built in 1851 memorializes 108 Chinese merchant sailors who were killed when mistaken for pirates. The wall of incense hits you like a second threshold once you enter the grounds. The style of all Hoi An's Chinese buildings is relatively similar. |
A large and grand single, free standing wall entrance way from the street opens to a courtyard of bonsai trees, ponds, statues and sculptures. There is a single central focus feature and on either side are smaller features with both sides identical to each other creating balance and symmetry. Chinese Feng Shui is heavily employed in these designs. Across the courtyard you step over the large wooden threshold used to protect the building from evil spirits into a roofed altar area comprising gold figures, statues of historic war heroes, incense cauldrons and walls of Chinese characters written on huge parchment. The outside of the roofs are equally adorned displaying carp rain spouts, the Chinese symbol for serenity, dragon style roof crowns and ancient tiling.
The video link below will take you through the aesthetics of these sights but will not describe the feelings these places stir in visitors. They are sensual and giving places. The sight is beautiful, the smell of incense is distinct and pungent, the sounds of birds in hanging cages chirping and the feel of the heavy wooden furniture and polished stone all culminate to bring about uncanny feelings of calm and peace. It is impossible to pass through these magical places without taking a moment to sit, look, listen and contemplate. Regardless of religious faith or beliefs every visitor will derive a sense of inner-peace and content from these places which one can take with them for the rest of the day. We visited many more of these beautiful Chinese halls and tombs dotted throughout the streets of the Old Town.
Much like its big city neighbour Da Nang, the locals of Hoi An are among the friendliest and open in Vietnam. They are used to Western guests and are eager to share welcoming niceties and cultural nuances. In between our early morning temple touring we were haphazardly wandering along the large stretch of pier when a meaningful call in our direction caused us to look around. From the street we spotted a traditional Vietnamese hat, a pair of excited eyes complete with frantically beckoning hand from below the pier wall. |
A local lady who, giving her every benefit, must have been in her late 50's was inviting us to take a boat trip around the bay. I cannot say a sail around the bay because this boat had no sail, no awning, no hand rail, no motor... in fact there was very little boat-like about this raft apart from the fact it was optimistically floating on a body of water.
It was the most austere craft in the bay and certainly unsafe looking. More than that this elderly woman was proposing to bring us around the bay gondola-style sporting a simple pole rather than a pair of oars for propulsion. She was a complete dote however and we did not want to leave her empty handed. We paid her a little money to take some photos with her on her boat and she seemed quite happy with this. The following day we found ourselves again beside the pier where we received a big wave and crinkly smile from our new friend all without any hint of a sales pitch! |
Travelling healthily is very important and despite the variety of vaccinations we endured before we left there is no injection capable of staving off home-sickness. With this in mind we made the short trip outside Hoi An towards Cau Dai beach where you will find Paddy's, Hoi An's only Irish Bar. Run by a Northern Irish guy and his Vietnamese wife this pub / restaurant is aptly located among the paddy fields which line the road out of town. Complete with swimming pool and handsome bulldog pup this new enterprise is a real pleasure to visit. The food was excellent and a welcome taste of home. Scotch egg, Bruschetta, Chicken Kiev and Pork belly with mash all washed down with some local beer for good measure was just what the Doctor ordered as thoughts of home threatened.
Our last night in Hoi An we went to a recommended restaurant, full of local delicacies. We were coming to the end of a delicious meal when an inquisitive little gecko decided to join us at our table. I wasn’t thrilled so I swapped seats with Cian only to realise that I had been sitting under three of the little buggers for the entire meal.
Geckos in Vietnam are like flies in Ireland, they are a penny a dozen and ignored by locals. We calmly came to terms with our visitors and were even contemplating dessert when a rat, the size of a small cat (no exaggeration), pranced along the awning in front of our table. The entire beam shook with the weight of the well fed critter. Obviously, dessert was declined and we decided it was time to make a move! What have we learned from this experience? 'Don’t look up’ – what you don’t know can’t hurt you?!? See you in Hue! |