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Teaching English as a Foreign Language

5/31/2015

Stop Five, Hanoi 25/04/2015 to 31/05/2015
(Written by Him)

I imagine many of you reading this will have visited a foreign country in your lives or at least travelled to some out-of-the-way speck within your own national parish. Generally the experience is that of any other seasonal blow-in, pubs, postcards and pictures of oneself looking a little worse than you had initially anticipated. So far so good! But try to imagine working in that other place. Gaining employment from a local, turning up at your new foreign place of work, doing a passable job according to the local expectations and taking home wages at the local rate. This new dynamic is considerably opposed to the usual holiday mode of spending all around oneself while hoping to be allowed leave the country in 2 weeks time.

Before setting off both of us completed an on-line "teaching English as a foreign language" course. There are many TEFL courses available with a wide variation in terms of cost and credibility. We did not break the bank! CELTA and Trinity are the most highly regarded, highly sought after by employers and unsurprisingly the most expensive. Herself brought work to complete here in Vietnam which she had secured before leaving Ireland.

This type of working abroad is challenging in its own right but it meant I was left to forage alone for work once we arrived in Hanoi. I was aware that it would be unlikely for me to find full-time employment given the length of time I planned to spend in Hanoi, and the free time I wished to dedicate to teaching. I would have to go the self-employed route. Fortunately there are many websites (including ex-pat websites) where one can advertise as a private English teacher at an hourly rate. If you have a cushion of savings as I had you can afford to price yourself competitively, at least initially. You will need a Vietnamese mobile number and a basic knowledge of the IELTS examination which is the most popular English proficiency exam undertaken by the Vietnamese. Ads quoting preparation for IELTS are effective. English is very important in terms of the Vietnamese job market and many young people are eager to improve their abilities beyond what they learnt in school. The fact that many prospective customers have a basic level of English to begin with really makes the whole process much easier for the outsider. I am equally sure that one could sit on the side of any busy street with a sign "15 minute English lesson - $1.50" written in the vernacular and you could also make money but I would not like to tempt a local cop to ask me about my visa. The lessons wouldn't pay for the bribe.

Once I secured my first student I felt like I had achieved a lot. With a little persistence and word of mouth on the part of one’s new protégé a self-employed foreigner could build up a lucrative client base in a matter of months. Once again I was in the enviable position of not working to sustain myself instead doing it just for the experience which meant I did not have to always be pushing for more customers. In the end I had 3 students, which was more than enough for me.

Hieple - an engineer, Maianh - a University teacher and Thien - a bar man, made up my student body. All were older, late 20's to late 30's and learning English for work purposes. All had little interest in formal learning sessions of say grammar, instead wanting to converse and have their pronunciation or tenses corrected as we went along. The most common mistakes apart from misuse of words or tenses was using the Vietnamese pronunciation for letters within English words. For example the Vietnamese "i" normally has an "eee" sound. So words like "mistake" become "meestake" and the Vietnamese "t" has a "d" sound so "it" becomes "id" etc. What I wasn't expecting was how easily my own English would suffer in conversation as I was making an unconscious effort to be understood, "How old she", "you eat Pho there" "how you know" etc.

My students brought few if any materials with them and I found the most important book between us was my Vietnamese / English dictionary. I would meet them individually, in public places where we could sit and spend time, local parks (when it wasn't too hot), coffee shops and shopping plazas. On one occasion we were evicted from an almost empty coffee shop as it was "bad for business". I think we were practicing too loudly for the other customer. I noticed both locals and tourists alike casting an eye over what must have appeared to them as a strange pairing, like my student and I were bridging some social divide as we sat together.

I enjoyed every minute of it. Meeting new people and having good, prolonged and intimate interactions, learning about their culture and being able, in turn, to effect that persons specific situation (if only slightly) is a privilege. I recommend it to anyone who has time to spare and is interested in peeling back a layer of the veneer, getting to know a new way of life while also making real friends.

Where to next for my teaching English, cultural, social conquest....I'm looking at you Dingle!

I would always arrange to spend an hour or so with each student but this time would invariably expand to 2 hours or more. My students always seemed to have free time and even when I would make gentle attempts to end a session they were clearly content to keep going seemingly indefinitely. Overall I met each student 6 times throughout my time in Hanoi and I have agreed with all to keep in touch on Skype where we will exchange English for Vietnamese.

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Learning the Local Language

5/31/2015

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Stop Five, Hanoi 25/04/2015 to 31/05/2015
(Written by Him)

We are in the midst of what will likely be the most ambitious single trip of our lives. It continues to be (overall) expensive and our savings are turning into hotels, day trips, souvenirs and bowls of pho. A natural inclination when one spends any significant amount of money is an eagerness to achieve the best return. For me, knowledge of and a meaningful interaction with a foreign culture is a commodity I consider to be very valuable.

There is little point in rocking up to your far flung destination only to sit on a beach, which could be any beach, eat pizza and chips and get irate because the taxi driver cant understand your Kerry accent. That said, I am not suggesting you need to find the most remote field that no traveller has ever tread before but I do not want to feel like a disinterested passer through. Learning the local languages of our destinations has therefore become very important to me. It is something I have relative control over and learning even a few words is invariably appreciated by the local people as a novel and endearing gesture. I am happy to do it.

The local reactions to a Westerner speaking Vietnamese has in my experience been very positive! In the early stages I got a lot of help from our hotel staff. They all had excellent English and were delighted to translate anything I needed into Vietnamese (e.g. my 13 grammar sentences - see point 3 below). Armed with this new knowledge I began to drop some phrases into conversation as we went into shops, taxis and restaurants. In the more tourist friendly businesses it was taken as greatly amusing and appreciated.I was often understood here in the early stages.

When speaking with locals who did not have any English however it became much more difficult. Many of these people seem to have never heard an accent other than their own before not to mention a foreigner making attempts at it. Some ignored what I said or didn't even identify it as their own language.

Pronunciation is paramount in Vietnam and almost impossible to get just right no matter how many times you hear a word. Some thought I was just speaking more English they didn't understand, while others looked at me as one might a tiger who had just shown them a card trick, a kind of disbelief mixed with a thought of 'how weird'. As I improved, however, the reactions also improved. It quickly got to the point where everything I said was understood and impressed people would respond to us in Vietnamese. I was not quite ready for much of this of course and relied heavily on the Vietnamese for "I just know a little bit".

With the exception of a bewildered few at the beginning my attempts to speak the language were very well received and we found ourselves making friends and being recognized frequently on the street where we lived. We often received special treatments such as sight and food recommendations, being taught new words and having extended conversations about us and what we were doing and why we were learning Vietnamese. These enhancements to our general experience were easily worth a few hours learning the basics.

What follows are my top language learning tips:
The parameters of learning a foreign language in order to travel are generally the following: time and money are in short supply; no formal classes are available or suitable and; your first chance to speak the language will be in the taxi from the airport. These restrictions certainly applied to me and with them in mind here are my tips:

Approach a new language as if it comprises a specific set of ingredients: grammar; vocabulary; speaking / pronunciation; reading / writing.

I like to start by looking at the alphabet (if it is a language that uses roman letters i.e. not Chinese or Thai characters etc.) and also get familiar with the tones if any, e.g. Vietnamese has 6 tones. This will allow me at least make an attempt at pronunciation when I am looking at words and when I do learn the actual pronunciation it should not be too far off. You might also like to learn some common expressions at this point including, "hello", "please" and "thank you".

Next I will look at grammar using the "13 grammar sentences" which when analysed and translated literally (word for word in the order of the target language) will give enough information to discover how 90% of sentences are structured and what the personal pronouns are e.g. "I give John the apple... She gives it to him." And so on.

YOUR 13 NEED TO KNOW GRAMMER SENTENCES

Next I like to learn the "helper verbs" including: "have"; "must"; "need", "can"; "would like" and their negatives in past, present and future tenses. I can then use these helpers with the infinitive of whatever verb I need without having to learn to conjugate every verb e.g. I need (helper verb)- to go - to eat - to sleep - to wash etc. Boom, grammar done and I have access to loads of verbs pretty quickly.

Following verbs I like to learn vocabulary. Search google for a list of the 100 most frequently used words in English, translate those into the target language and learn those first. 10-20 a day is not too difficult. I will also learn the 15 most frequent verbs (infinitives only - see point 4). These 100 words & 15 verbs plus our grammar foundations will allow you to express yourself pretty well in most situations. The aim at this point is simply to communicate at a basic level, you do not have to be able to read the business section of the local newspaper.

The experts advise you should be speaking in the target language while you assemble these foundations and there are forums on-line where you can chat with someone native in almost any language in exchange for some English lessons.

Once the basics as above are there you will have surpassed the vast majority or your travelling peers, you will be appreciated by your hosts and suddenly you are having a very different travel experience than our Kerry man on the beach.

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Footpaths in Vietnam!?

5/31/2015

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Stop Five, Hanoi 25/04/2015 to 31/05/2015
(Written by Her)

Oh Footpaths, the bain of my life in Hanoi. One wouldn’t think that something as mundane as footpaths could irk anybody to the point of writing a blog about them. But here we are.

Let me explain:

In Hanoi, people live on the footpaths. You might notice from photos that house, shops and other business premises are very narrow. They were built during a time when people were taxed on the width of their property. Narrow business premises, many of which serve as the home of the proprietor in a room out the back, inevitably tend to spill over onto the footpaths. Small tourist stores line up their wares along the ground, paintings of galleries are hung outside, convenience stores leave produce in boxes along the footpath. The use of footpaths is aided by the fact that many business don’t have doors, instead they have an open front which is locked via a pull down shutter at night. As a result, it’s sometimes hard to tell where the shop ends and the footpath begins.

I felt it only necessary to accompany my 'Hanoi Footpaths' blog with a video of road walking! It's mad really but we're still alive and kicking (despite a few near misses).

A general lack of space in the city of Hanoi means that most families either live in a backroom off their business premises or, if they don’t own a business, they live in a small flat found, hundreds of which can be found down the many narrow (seemingly endless), dark, damp alley ways off the main streets. Needing space for their animals (usually chickens or ducks raised for eating of course), these families often hang cages along the alley ways, or better still, allow their animals to roam free around the footpaths. The scraggly looking chickens and cockerels wander around nibbling at people’s leftover sunflower seeds under bar tables. We have had to shoo them out of our way when walking down the road.

Footpaths become carparks in some areas where parking is difficult (quite a lot of areas). Motos are abandoned outside shops, bars and restaurants to the extent that some business have actually hired staff to keep the parking somewhat organised. One day, I was sitting alone on a street front table in one of our regular bars when I saw a young girl drive right to the door of the bar, hop off her motorcycle and take out the keys. Later her two friends seemingly abandoned their motos outside the door and hopped off, blocking all entry to the bar from the footpath. Within seconds an older man, maybe early 60s moved their motos in line with others he had neatly arranged at one side of the bar front, opening up a clear walkway about the size of one person wide, just enough for others to reach the bar. He continued to move people’s motos for the entire hour that I watched. A valet service for motos? It seemed that there were always at least 10 motos parked outside at any one time. It was perfectly normal, reasonable in fact that the entire footpath outside the bar was impassable by pedestrians on the street, just as long as they could reach the bar if they so pleased!

Finally, business is conducted on the footpaths. Hairdressers, barbers, restaurants, bars, cafes, shoe makers, beautician’s welders, you name it you will see it as you walk along any Hanoi footpath, outside the main tourist area. Children do their homework on plastic chairs outside their parents shop. Men fix moto tyres using buckets of flaming tar (which you try to inch past in case a breeze picks up and scalds your leg). I have seen women lying on the ground in front of fans which have been brought outside for some refuge from the heat of the day.

I have closely missed some dangling electric wires encroaching on the footpath. I have walked past paintings propped up against lines of moto – left in the sun to dry. With all this to contend with, walking in Hanoi is a veritable obstacle course. Furthermore, when footpaths are available for walking, they are in horrible condition. We have frequently come across broken bricks, holes in the path, overgrown tree roots disturbing paving. Meaning, it is never a pleasure to walk anywhere.

Part of my issue with such hectic footpaths in Hanoi is that going anywhere fast is an impossibility. While slowness is a way of life here, and perfectly acceptable, tourists who seem to be moving without purpose are like sitting ducks for the hawkers and vendors trying to sell knock off books, bags and lighters (branded with Paris and London logos!). Furthermore, as you meander around obstacles, you quickly find yourself walking on the street where cars, motos and cyclos beep at you to move out of the way. Add to this the state of the paving (uprooted by trees and new buildings), holes in the road due to a poorly maintained drainage system and a sticky humid day - walking along a main street can become cause for a headache.

I’ve read that the current use of footpaths in Hanoi has become a political issue. There has been a long history of traders who come from the countryside to sell their wares in the city. These people don’t own property, relying solely on the business they drum up on the street (i.e. footpath). In contrast, the young more educated city folk want to see this tradition eradicated. They feel that tourists would be more interested if walking around the city was safer (true). They have successfully lobbied the government to change the street vending laws, thus making it more difficult to be a country vendor. Police arrive to move people on, rather than allow them to use the footpath. From what I can see, country vendors have a difficult enough life. I guess I'll have to deal with street walking and give them a break.

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Glorious Ha Long Bay (UNESCO)

5/30/2015

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Stop 6, Ha Long Bay 26/05/2015 to 27/05/2015
(Written by Her)

Ha Long Bay, in the Gulf of Tonkin, has been listed as a UNESCO world heritage site since 1994 (for its aesthetic value) and 2000 (for its geological value). In 2012, the area was listed as one of the new 7 natural wonders of the world. In short, it’s worth a visit! The unique landscape is made up of almost 2000 islands formed over a period of 500 million years. Once a rocky, mountainous region exposed to erosion and degradation, over time, huge tectonic movements have meant that the land effectively sank and was flooded with nearby seawater creating the Bay as we know it today.

According to an ancient Vietnamese legend, after the borders of Vietnam where defined, the coast was to be engaged by invaders. To defend Vietnam the Gods sent a family of dragons to help the locals. The dragons spat out pearls all over the bay. The pearls turned to mountains and the invaders, unable to navigate their ships through the bay crashed and sank. After winning the battle, the dragons remained on earth and lived peacefully in the bay. In Vietnamese, ‘Ha Long Bay’ translates directly as ‘descending dragon’ bay.

Booking a Cruise

There are literally hundreds of options available when booking a cruise in Ha Long. It is one of the busiest and most well-organised tourist attractions in Vietnam and delivers huge revenues each year. Most people opt for either a 2 day / 1 night cruise, or a 3 day / 2 night cruise. I would recommend the former as most cruises are jam packed with activities and even the bravest soul would be hard pushed to stay on schedule for longer than the 2 day option. Boats range from 1-5 stars, costing anywhere between $30 to $1,000 per person for 2d/1n cruise around the bay. The differences between boats lie, not just in the quality of the facilities and interior (which often is the only evident difference when researching online), but also in the level of training & experience of the staff, the safety of the kayaks, the quality and choice of food and most importantly the itinerary which dictates the route around the bay. The old saying certainly rings true in Ha Long – you get what you pay for!

We had read numerous reports about unsafe practices, poor hygiene, scams, cancellations and worst of all – polluted water. However, we experienced none of this. We avoided high season which meant our boat only had 12 people aboard including us (there were almost as many staff as passengers). I was able to sit on an empty deck and enjoy the scenery for literally hours without interruption. Also, being low season meant that we could get better deals which meant we could choose a nicer boat. We went with the 5* Emeraude. It has a great reputation having won 2 ‘best cruises in Ha Long bay’ awards in the last 10 years.

Our Boat - The Emeraude

The Emeraude appealed to us because of its unique style and history. It is the only boat cruising Ha Long that is modeled entirely on an old French paddle steamer. The original Emeraude was built by a French colonizer in the late 1800's but the she sank in 1937. A French entrepreneur found a picture of the original Emeraude in a flea market in Paris and set about finding the owners. When he did, he told them he wanted to build a paddle steamer in homage to the original Emeraude, complete with paddle wheel!

They supplied him with a model of the original ship and some of the original china, uniforms and silverware which survived the sinking. In 2004, the new Emeraude set sail on Ha Long Bay. For us, it was a once-in-a-lifetime experience. We booked a deluxe cabin, which was very quaint with dark wooden floors, old style fans, air-con, cute cabin doors, comfortable beds, a choice of pillows (herbal, buckwheat, memory foam etc.), private deck with seating, cookies and water in our room. Complete with a modern bathroom & rain shower we set sail in comfort. The polished deck and railings feel very old world and the restaurant is themed as a classic voyager. Well worth the extra $$, although I would avoid high season having been told our room can go for up to $600 per night.

8:00 - Hanoi to Ha Long

After a 4 hour, very bumpy, very swerve-tastic mini-bus ride from Hanoi, we finally arrived in Ha Long Bay. To be fair, I don’t think it is possible to have a comfortable journey to Ha Long regardless of the transport. The roads are in terrible condition, the drivers tend towards speeding and seem to really enjoy overtaking anything and everything, on the outside or the inside. Just make sure you have air conditioning, some decent leg room and a seat belt! Most means of transport stop half way to drop you at a tourist shop for 15 minutes, hoping to lighten your wallet. Regardless, it is a welcome break from the bumpy road. Most buses leave Hanoi at 8am and arrive in Ha Long at 12ish.

As we approached the bay, we all woke from our drowsy spell to stare at the little island peaks in the distance. From a distance it appeared as though there was fog on the bay, making it look even more mythical. Within minutes we were dropped at our Cruise Ship's café for quick refreshments and registration. From there we boarded a small motor boat which would take us to the Emeraude anchored in deeper water. We donned life jackets for the 3 minute seated ride, and ironically, took them off before we made our way precariously from the smaller motor boat to the Emeraude!

12:30 - Embarkation & Lunch

Greeted with welcome drinks and staff wearing pressed nautical uniforms, the captain raised Anchor and we set sail. Yes it was like a movie!! After checking into our cute cabin, we headed to the restaurant for our 4 course lunch. Our boat had less than 14 passengers and so a little disappointingly the buffet was substituted for a set menu. The meals were of decent quality and given the number of courses there was well enough for everyone (if you are a vegetarian, you need to tell them prior to embarking, there are no vegetarian options on the set menus). We ate our way through chicken cordon bleu and white chocolate mousse, before heading to the upper deck for some photos. We had one hour of free time before the voluminous activities started!!

14:00 - Free Time

After lunch, he wasn’t feeling too well (still ill from digesting bacteria a few days before) and went for a lie down. I went exploring! I found an amazing spot right at the front of the boat which had 2 private sun-loungers looking directly out to sea with not a soul in sight. I saddled, feet up to drink in the views and enjoy the warm breeze. I later realised that this very secret private area is usually reserved for the couple who book the boats only suite. Luckily for me it was vacant today, and no one else knew it. Yay. Not wanting to leave my haven I sat for 2 hours taking it all in.

Funnily, while no one on the boat knew I was taking advantage of the suite’s private deck, I was spotted from the water! Two women, rowing small wooden boats filled to the brim with snacks, drinks and jewellery rowed over to me, shouting ‘madam, madam you want to buy?’ They looked so tiny compared to the huge Emeraude, yet they came prepared with a long handled net with which they could pass me anything I desired. I hadn’t the heart to tell them that all food is included in the cruise – no one was likely to buy anything. What a life it would be to row from ship to ship all day in Ha Long Bay making little more than a couple of dollars.

15:00 - Sung Sot Grotto

Discovered by the French (they got around didn’t they), this cave is over 10,000 sqm and lies inside one of the limestone islands. Himself and a few other passengers were brought, via motor boat to the entrance of the cave. After scaling 50+ slippery, steep stone steps (thank God I gave this one a miss), they were treated to some amazing views out over the bay. Inside the cave was a little cooler in temperature but teaming with visitors. The group spent an hour walking around a circuit to see all the key formations. Stalagmite this, stalactite that. It was a tough trek but the views.....definitely worth it.

16:30 - Pearl Farm

Declining the chance to swim the couple of kilometers to the pearl farm! We took the small motor boat which landed us on a large, floating wooden platform. Looking at the water between the boards under my feet, I gingerly walked from timber to timber as they dipped, wobbled and creaked underneath us! Our guide showed us how pearls are grown and harvested by manipulating little oysters with surgical like methods.

Once we had viewed each step in the pearl process we were brought upstairs (yes, there was an upstairs on this rickety floating platform) to the obligatory gift shop selling pearl jewellery harvested from the surrounding waters. I would have bought a souvenir if they weren’t astronomical priced. We got to dip our toes into the warm Bay water, (swinging off the edge of the floating platform) before heading back to the Emeraude for the crepe station !!!

A community of around 1,600 people live on Hạ Long Bay. These fishing villages, like the pearl farm, are floating on water, with walkways floating on barrels and wooden shacks quickly weathering with the heat and salt water. The people live and work off the bay, making most of their livelihood from fishing. On our cruise through the islands we encountered numerous fishing boats of all sizes, many covered in rust. As we waved to nearby, conical hatted fishermen, we could see clothes drying on washing lines and food sitting in buckets. We wondered how long they spend on their boats or indeed if the boat is all they have. With increased tourism, pollution and serious over-fishing it must be difficult to make a living in Ha long nowadays.

18:00 - Cookery Demonstration

Before dinner, but after enough time for us to change into our ‘smart’ dinner attire, I popped to the sundeck for a cooking demonstration. The Chef, a young girl no more than 25 was showing us how to make fresh spring rolls and tomato swans (of course!?). As I sat there, the sun set over the islands creating an orange glowing backdrop. A wonderful way to end the day you might say. But it wasn’t over yet! After a 4 course dinner of Vietnamese favourites we headed to the back of the boat to see if we could catch some squid – as if we hadn’t eaten enough!

20:00 - Squid Fishing

Nestled among the sleeping Kayaks and accompanied by a couple of crew members, we decided to try our hand at some squid fishing. We were told that the previous night, passengers had caught more than 10kgs of squid so we were hugely hopeful if not a little cocky. As we stood, perched on a small platform at the back of the boat, hovering just above the water's surface, we saw plenty of squid darting about in the water below us – none of which were willing to jump on our hooks!

Without bate, using 4 hooked lures on the end of a fishing line our job was to pull it through the water in such a fashion that it looked like a fish. Easier said than done. We stayed, aimlessly throwing our hooks into the water for about 30mins without a single catch, admitting defeat we went to watch the movie.

21:00 - Silver Screen

Using a full-sized projector screen on the top deck, chairs were set up like a movie theatre for the screening of ‘Indochine’, an award winning French movie with English subtitles. A random choice one might think but part of the movie was filmed around Halong Bay. In fairness, the idea couldn’t have been more lovely; watching a movie outdoors with the lights of other docked boats in the distance as we anchored for the night. However, after such a long day, and acutely aware of our 5am start, we (and everyone else) headed to bed after less than an hour.

Day 2, 6:00 - Tai Chi

Despite some light pitching, the boat was pretty comfortable for the night. We rose early for complementary muffins and juice on the sundeck before our Tai Chi lesson. After sunrise we got stuck in, firstly warming up and then doing the 24 key steps (twice). It looks a lot easier than it is. With slow movements we awkwardly copied the instructor, whom we had almost totally to ourselves. No one else seemed to have risen for the early morning activities.

7:00 - Sea Kayaking

For fear we might have a spare minute, we had booked a Kayak for 7am, as we were advised it would be a little cooler at that hour. We again made our way down to the floating platform at the back of the boat, clipped our life jackets on and climbed into a two person, open topped Kayak and set out on for open water. The sun shine danced on the waters surface as we struggled to keep the kayak steady. Left, right, left, right. We were hopeless, seemingly rowing against each other at every opportunity! The greenish water was warm and clear for the first couple of feet. I dropped my hands, giving up on the rowing in not so quiet frustration...splash!. Finally, I hopped off to allow himself a little more adventure, rowing right around the boat a couple of times before calling it a day. I was quiet happy to warm my toes in the gently lapping waves. Unfortunately, we had lots of great Kayaking video but the sim card in our video camera corrupted. Typical! So here's a few stills we salvaged instead.

8:00 - Breakfast / Disembarkation

The cruise activities concluded with a continental breakfast in the ships restaurant of omelette, sausage, fruit and the usual breakfast beverages. Sipping a cool glass of OJ while admiring through a large porthole, a continuously changing view of a natural wonder is an experience both to relish and cherish. The captain anchored a small distance from the bay at 10:30 am and we were brought to shore..After an all too brief stop in the crisp, air-conditioned coolness of the Emeraude cafe we were very much jolted from our Ha Long fairy tale as the bus bumped and swerved its way back to Hanoi.

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Lessons from Western Friends in Hanoi

5/28/2015

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Stop Five, Hanoi 25/04/2015 to 31/05/2015
(Written by Her)

Two weeks ago today, we made our first Western Friends in Hanoi. Cheers are in order believe me!

It took a lot longer than expected if we’re honest. We had this preconceived idea that Westerners, who meet in foreign countries, would be much more friendly and welcoming than your average person. In reality, that couldn’t be farther from the truth. Our first weeks in Vietnam we always said ‘Hello’ to foreigners who we passed in the street or in our hotel. I mean - come on, we know you’re foreign, you know I’m foreign, we’re far from home, let’s get on! At least 70% of the time our friendly ‘hellos’ were (are) met with silence. To our surprise, we found that most Westerners, with the exception of a few German couples, don’t want to know us.

Over time we have begun to deduce why we may have been so unlucky with our encounters. Surely we don’t smell, at least not any worse than they do!!! Our problem is that there are 3 stereotypical types of travellers that we have met in Vietnam, none of which we would align ourselves with. Let me explain:

Traveller 1: Well-to-do Ted

Ted is aged anywhere from 35 to 65. He is usually Australian, (no offence) and is in Vietnam on a very nice luxury 2 week holiday. You see, Ted’s money goes much further in Vietnam than it would in Oz so he is spending like it's going out of style. Ted is staying in a 5* hotel, eats in overpriced restaurants and is accompanied by a guide everywhere but the shower! Ted’s guide opens doors for him, buys attraction tickets for him, even fans him when he’s too warm! From what I've seen, Ted's an ass (again, no offence). We have NOTHING in common with Ted.

Traveller 2: Party-girl Jen

There are quite a few Jen’s in Hanoi. Travelling presumably on Mum and Dad’s dime, Jen is usually between 19 and 22 years old. She is excited by the cheap beer, particularly buy 1 get 1 free happy hour. Her hotel is decent and in the centre of all the hustle and bustle, which doesn’t seem to prevent her from sleeping until 3pm each day. Jen is only getting going at 10pm after a few cocktails. Sometimes, the remnants of the night before are visible on poor Jen's body: bruised legs, scratched knees, even broken bones! Temples are not really her thing, I’m not entirely sure she would be allowed in wearing those hot pants anyway! We have NOTHING in common with Jen!

Traveller 3: Hippy Sally

Sally is usually between 20 and 30. She has been travelling for years, to be honest, she can’t remember what it was like before she was a wanderer. Her entire outfit has been purchased in markets somewhere in the developing world. She has tattoos, a piercing or 2, usually some lightening (sun-in style) wavy hair. We mistakenly thought that we may find a home with Sally. Maybe have some interesting conversations about travel, culture, food! Not quite, you see Sally is not what she appears. While Sally has travelled extensively and looks as though she was born from the earth, rising from the dust with no money or direction. The truth is, Sally actually spends a pretty penny, but is less likely to wash than young Jen. Sally stays in pretty nice Hotels, takes taxis, drinks like a fish, smokes like a chimney and can usually be found grazing away from food stand to food stand not far from her room. In short, Sally talks a lot of S**t. (maybe we have something in common with Sally after all? Just kidding!)

When visiting local temples, museums or pagodas, the only traveller we ever meet is Ted. We were on a bus full of Ted’s when visiting the Cu Chi tunnels. After all, Jen and Sally don’t enter the day until after 3, at which point our day is almost over. At least Ted is soaking up the scenery and getting a nice few snaps of the wife, even if his face looks mildly disinterested! Either way, you can understand why we have found it difficult to bond with any other Western travellers.

Our Hanoi story has a happy ending however, not only did we meet fabulous Vietnamese people, we also made our first Western friends (three cheers). Tim and Kate, both in their late 30s, were former BBC journalists who lived and worked in Belfast & London for years. They had quit their jobs, decided not to have children, and headed off on what they call a ‘slow travel’ adventure. Tim & Kate were a breath of fresh air (which, funnily enough, is what they called us!). They had travelled for 2 years all over Thailand, Malaysia, Indonesia, Camodia, Laos, China and now were finishing with Vietnam. Like us, they had begun in Saigon and headed up the country to Hanoi. They were now staying in our hotel for their last week in Asia before moving back to London. We were lucky to catch them!

We had met several times in the elevator. Tim is a gregarious guy with a distinctive laugh, while Kate is much more subdued, definitely the more sensible of the two. We upped the ante by having breakfast with them, after which they invited us for drinks in a local rooftop bar they liked. We sat for hours listening to their tips about Angkor Wat, Malaysian food and Cambodian children. They have had a fascinating, privileged, yet quite challenging 2 years. They have picked up odd jobs along the way, with Kate currently editing PhD theses and Tim organising conferences. They understood my work frustrations (in fact I had to pop back to the hotel to do two interviews in the middle of our night out). They were the first people we met that were travelling to the same places, at the same standard, without the help of guides. They too had spent all their savings on this trip of a lifetime and they have felt the same personal frustrations. It was a delight to talk with them.

They reassured us that we have done the right things, such as changing our itinerary to take 1 hour flights instead of 13hr train rides. You see, there is an attitude which exists that suggests unless you do something the hard way, then it’s like you are not doing it at all. Of course that is bulls**t but sometimes it’s hard to shake off. Anyone who knows us, knows that we have always done things the longest and hardest way possible and maybe it’s time to take a friggin’ break!

The most memorable thing Kate said to me was, ‘be kind to yourselves’. At the time, this is exactly what I needed to hear from someone who understood. You see, up to this point we had done a fair deal of beating ourselves up. We were both disappointed in our progress in Hanoi. Cian was finding the language learning more difficult than he usually does. Vietnamese has got six tones and all sounds the same to me but he wouldn’t accept defeat. He was clearly getting frustrated with his ability, spending hours studying without satisfaction. I on the other hand was frustrated for completely different reasons. Very effected by the heat and some frequent tummy upset I had begun to get complacent about sightseeing, learning and food tasting in Hanoi, putting things off for another day. Then later, feeling guilty because here we are, in an amazing city, doing what we have always wanted to do, and we’re too tired or too hot! Really? Not good enough.

But Kate is right. It’s only when you travel without guided tours, without endless bags of money, to countries that suffer from poverty and extreme weather conditions that you realise, you’re not infallible. You will be tired, hungry, sick. Not everything is possible, you have to listen to yourself and adjust your expectations. This is hard for me because I routinely push myself to the limit (sometimes beyond) and expect the same from those around me. My attitude has always been 'if I can do it, then I should do it', which is not always true. Just because I can work three jobs, doesn't mean it is good for me, right Denis?. So I guess I learned something important from Tim and Kate; sometimes you need to sleep in, sometimes you need to sit in an air-conditioned café and eat pizza. Sometimes you need to take a taxi.

‘Be kind to yourself’, it’s okay, you won't regret it.

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Hanoi Highlights

5/27/2015

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Stop Five, Hanoi 25/04/2015 - 31/05/2015
(Written by Us)

The capital city of Vietnam lies in the north of the country on the banks of the Red River. Hanoi literally translated means "bend in the river" and the city is bordered on the North and the East by water. Like much of Vietnam, modern Hanoi clearly and proudly reflects its 1000 year history. The 36 streets of the Old Quarter, where we are staying, is said to be the oldest portion of the city. At that time the streets were divided by trade and guild. Much of this geographical division of labour can still be seen today, Hang Ca - fish street, Hang Buom - Bamboo street etc. however these same streets are now liberally sprinkled with ever increasing hotels and tourist services. When not busy with work or down time, we have made the most of the city’s sights and are ready to present our verdict!

Museums in Hanoi

Ah museums, a tragically boring way to spend your days in my opinion (not cian's mind)! But as we’re here for longer than most we feel we aught to frequent at least some of the main attractions. To date we have visited the Revolution Museum, the Women’s museum, the Fine Arts Museum and the Military History Museum. While I won’t bore you with a detailed description of the contents, I will share my musings – lucky you!

Interestingly, it seems that all museum collections are housed in buildings built by the French colonisers. They are vast spaces with double height rooms, long corridors, lines of identical windows all complete with French style shutters and grand entrances with pillars and marble stairs. I wonder if the Vietnamese chose to house their treasured items in French buildings because there are just no other buildings large enough to serve as public buildings?

While I’m sure, if armed with a private guide, the contents of these museums would be of real interest to visitors, without a guide it is more than difficult to follow translations and the chronology of events. In one museum, I found myself desperately trying to piece together the history of Vietnamese revolution, from the invasion of the French, to the Invasion of the Japanese, the rise of the socialist party and the influence of communist Russia. When I left, I felt as though I had just read a really complicated text book and my brain needed its own holiday!

The most interesting of these museums was the Women’s Museum, it inspired my purchase of several books on women in Vietnam – and will very shortly inspire my blog on the same topic. Stay tuned!

The Temple of Literature

An unexpected gem in the centre of the city. The temple was home to Vietnam’s first ever National University called Quốc Tử Giám (1070). Originally the university was open only to the royalty and elite. In 1442, the doors were opened to all gifted students who were bright enough to pass the entrance exam. Students came from around the country to follow the teachings of Confucius, reading Chinese philosophy and history, discussing literature and writing poetry. They studied for 3 to 7 years, with monthly tests and yearly exams to be passed before they reached ‘the royal exam’.

The Royal exam was the ultimate test, when the student would be quizzed by the King himself (a sort of Viva Voce in my mind). It was the King who decided each student’s fate. The temple now honours the legacy of these graduates in the corridor of Stele stones. In 1484, 116 Stele stones were etched with the names of all graduates (1307 doctors). Each stone was carved with a turtle at the base – carrying the stone.

In Vietnam, the turtle is one of the four sacred animals, symbolising longevity and, most importantly in this case, wisdom. We noticed that some names were scratched out on the Stele stone, when we asked why, we were told that some graduates who went on to disgrace themselves or the University were erased from the stones, despite their earlier achievements. Therefore, once a graduate of Quốc Tử Giám, one had to honour the reputation of the University for the rest of their days (harsh). On our visit, we were lucky enough to come across a class who were graduating from High school. Even in the intense heat, they donned the cap and gown, looking suitably elegant for the special day.

The Hanoi Hilton

Hoa Lo Prison, Maison Centrale, Hanoi Hilton, the variety of names given to this infamous building serve to reflect its changing role throughout its grim history. The prison was originally built by French colonists between 1886 and 1890 to house Vietnamese political agitators who rejected the imposed French rule. Maison Centrale (central house) is a traditional French euphemism for prison while Hoa Lo as it became known by the locals means "fiery furnace" or "Hells hole". During the war with America in the 1960's and 1970's the prison, under Vietnamese ownership, was used to house American POWs who sarcastically referred to it as Hanoi Hilton.

The French began invading Northern Vietnam in 1880 and the swiftness with which the prison was planned and erected is indicative both of the level of Vietnamese hostility to the outsiders and also the French need to demonstrate authority and to make an example of any would-be rebels. As with many such attempts by colonising forces the prison and the horror stories which emerged from within its walls served only to entrench the local rebels with many former inmates receiving positions in the communist government or martyrdom. The building itself is French through and through, designed by 3 French architects, every bolt, screw and brick were transported from France during its construction.

The prison was routinely overcrowded and conditions dire. The museum exhibition which now occupies the only remaining wing states that prisons were fed on the worst food, often parasitic and sometimes purposely poisoned. The French guillotine was also employed to carry out the many death sentences which were passed during this time. Torture and arbitrary punishment were frequent. Some prisoners did manage to escape through the sewers on two separate occasions and quickly rejoined the resistance.

The prison was finally reclaimed by the Vietnamese in the 1950's after the historic battle of Dien Bien Phu which ended the French rule. It would soon be put to work again however when the first American POW Lieutenant, Junior Grade Everett Alvarez Jr. was incarcerated here in August 1964. John McCain who was later held here remembers, "As the massive steel doors loudly clanked shut behind me, I felt a deeper dread than I have ever felt since." The portion of the exhibition which depicts the prison's use during the American war describes how well the American soldiers were treated, playing sports, writing and receiving letters from home while eating what is said to have been the best food available at a time when many of Vietnam's poor starved. The reason proffered by the Vietnamese for such exceptional treatment was to show the world how humane they were and to demonstrate to the American soldiers the innate goodness of the Vietnamese people. John McCain would later state of the exhibit, "The thing is, it's not real. The 'museum' is an excellent propaganda establishment with very little connection with the actual events that took place inside those walls."

John McCain being treated by a Doctor

McCain being rescued from the crash site

McCain's Jump Suit (Apparently)

Water Puppet Theatre

SE Asia has many unique art forms and while we are unlikely to experience even the majority of them, North Vietnam's water puppets must rank among the most unique and unusual. Originating in the rice fields adjacent to the Red River delta during the 11th Century, water puppetry began as a form of local entertainment which the rice farmers would perform when their fields would flood. The puppeteers stood waist deep in a body of water, hidden from view. The wooden puppets, treated with lacquer and attached underneath to long rods would then play out their story on the water's surface with the shimmering, reflective nature of this unique stage heightening both drama and spectacle.

Today performances are reserved for the theatres such as the one we visited in Hanoi, overlooking Hoan Kiem Lake. Accompanied by traditional Vietnamese music and singing, also performed live, the hour long show really is fun for all the family. As you might expect, many of the short acts have a water based theme such as fishing, dragons and sea voyages. A particular highlight is the fisherman's battle with his catch as both man and fish and boat are manipulated swiftly above and below the water in unison. Many locals bring their young children to watch this aquatic Punch & Judy and even the most boisterous kids fall quiet and transfixed from the first act. The tiered seating in Hanoi's Water Puppet theatre must have been measured for locals only however as a number of taller Western visitors partially obstructed our view throughout. The puppets are not immune to water damage either and are said to last only 3 months before needing to be replaced so one is guaranteed never to see the same show twice!

Hanoi Citadel

Hanoi's citadel lies beneath the city's prominent flag tower and served as the primary location of Vietnamese military command for the last 1000 years. Much archaeology continues to be carried out in this area delving ever farther into the citadels long history. First constructed in 1010 the citadel was the royal and military quarters until the Vietnam's capital city was moved to Hue in 1810 and the Imperial Citadel of that city was constructed (see our Hue blog for more details).

Large parts of Hanoi's citadel were destroyed by the French during their invasion of the North in the late 19th Century. On entering the gardens seem to stretch for miles leading to the main gates of what was the interior walled area with the landscape meticulously manicured by busy local women brandishing conical hats and scissors. Beyond the gates there are relatively ordinary looking buildings housing pictorial and artifact exhibits.

Beyond these buildings lies the Vietnamese military bunker used during the American war. Here in a large room with a long table and seating for 25 or so military commanders, Vietnam's most famous and most loved General Vo Nguyen Giap planned and ordered the manoeuvres which eventually drove the Americans out of Vietnam. The bunker itself is built with 0.5 metre wide walls, steel doors and a sand covered roof to prevent shrapnel penetration. The Vietnamese have always favoured strategic tunnels (see our Cu Chi experience in Saigon) and a mighty military bunker would not be complete without an underground meeting room similar to its superterranean counterpart some 9 metres below the ground with various escape routes to other areas of the complex. The sight is not just a tourist haunt and we were lucky enough to glimpse classes of traditionally dressed school girls on tour during our visit.

Vietnamese Calligraphy Class

Just this morning we booked ourselves in on a Vietnamese Calligraphy Course with Backstreet Academy (a social enterprise who link international visitors with local craftsmen who are very skilled but are not involved in the tourist industry and do not speak English. Backstreet academy provides an interpreter to accompany you to your class so that you can get a more authentic experience than touristic groups. It allows money to go to locals who need it).

We turned up to our pick-up location and met our instructor Ha who spent more than 2 hours showing us the ropes of Calligraphic brush strokes. He studied for 8 years to be a master of his craft and there were a few giggles when he saw our attempts but we seemed to improve, albeit slightly. Who knew it was so difficult to draw a horizontal or vertical line. Believe me, after about 100 attempts at a straight line I was more than happy to move on to learning about Chinese and Vietnamese characters. When the class was finished we were presented with 2 scrolls to hang in our home for peace and happiness and 2 brushes with ink to help us practice. Ha told us (through our interpreter), that the new age of social media has made the world small and now we can email him if we need his advice on our progress! We should practice together for 30 minutes a day to become better. Jury’s out on that one!

FHV Walking Tour

Friends of Vietnam Heritage (FHV) is a not-for-profit organisation run by a group of Hanoi residents (a mixture of expats and Vietnamese locals).FHV specifically targets those who are interested in gaining a more in-depth knowledge of Hanoi history and architecture. Their main aim is to 'preserve and advance Vietnamese heritage and culture'. We were eager to help out and booked ourselves on a 3 hour walking tour of the Old Quarter. Our guide Loan Nguyen works for a bank during the week and volunteers as a guide for FHV in her spare time! Loan was a delight to spend time with. Despite her wiki-notes approach to guiding we learned a lot.

Our tour began at St. Josephs Cathedral, the largest Catholic Church in Hanoi, built on the site of a Buddhist temple (knocked during French colonial rule). From the Church, we made our way through the backstreets and alleys, home to numerous locals and less frequented by foreign visitors, on route to the city's smaller temples. We saw whole families sitting on the floors of cupboard-sized ground level living rooms, yapping twig-like miniature chihuahua pets and steaming pots of unidentifiable food perched over open fires in the street. The temples and ancient community halls were busy this Sunday morning not just for prayer but in preparation of a significant lunar event the following day. Food and provisions were being readied ahead of the congregations impending celebrations. We glimpsed at the warmth and hospitality of the Buddhist community not just by their eating together but even we as non-Buddhists were given gifts of food simply for visiting their places of worship. It was a most memorable experience.

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A Taste of Vietnam

5/23/2015

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Stop Five, Hanoi 25/04/2015 - 31/05/2015
(Written by Him)

Ok, we have been in Vietnam 7 weeks+ now. We have travelled the length of the country from Saigon to Hanoi. You have travelled with us, seeing what we see and experiencing the culture through our eyes. Its time to discuss the taste sensation.....food blog ahoy!

Every worldly-wise author, Joe Bloggs tripadvisor etc. mentioned in one form or another that the food in Vietnam would be amazing. On reflection, I am not sure that many (if any) travel writers have ever admitted that the indigenous cuisine of any country is terrible, to be avoided, and visitors should simply hope they can find the local McDonalds. That just isn't done, is it. Anyway, based on such glowing references we were very optimistic and eager to try the local delicacies.

Giving Vietnamese food a very fair try, we have eaten everywhere from the knee high plastic chairs of street side Bun stands to the french fusion gastronomy of the fine dining nha hang. We've paid everything from 0.50 cents to $15 for a meal. We have sampled pork, beef, fish and shell fish, vegetables, noodles of every variety and of course plenty of rice. Lamb does not feature, a woolly jacket in the Vietnamese heat....it would be animal cruelty.

So what is the verdict after such rigorous experimentation???
The food is; 'grand like'.

(We say this so often it has become a running joke). While we acknowledge that we may be difficult to impress, there is no denying that we have been wholly underwhelmed since our arrival. Nevertheless, let me recap on some of the highlights:

1. Our first day in Saigon we ate fresh spring rolls at Bến Thành Market, softened rice paper wrapped around fresh vegetables, shrimp and pork with a tasty dip. It was fresh and the setting exciting and the flavours good.

2. We continued with fried Mekong Catfish on the bone. I had no idea what to expect when I ordered this and what arrived was a simple, whole, fried fish with pickled lemon peel or something similar and tasty dip. I cleared my plate and enjoyed the meal but it was a simple fried fish

3. In Da Nang, we ate whole baby squid (head and all) fried, served in a light sauce with vegetables and noodles. Memorable, different and very fresh! We also tried "beef porridge" here which again was....different?!

4. Also in Da Nang we visited a restaurant famous for its clay-pot rice, in fact that is the literal translation of the restaurant's name. We both ordered a portion in mouth watering anticipation. Rice baked in its own steam in a clay-pot. If the rice had arrived on a simple plate I cant swear I would have noticed any difference

5. In Hoi An we sampled the local specialties of Cao Lau (pho with croutons) and White Rose (noodle ravioli with shrimp and pork). They certainly looked great and were both very edible but I felt the flavours were restrained and there could have been more to it.

6. We completed our first cooking course in Hoi An, making spring rolls and Banh Xeo (a savoury pancake of shrimp, pork, mung bean and green veg). Once again all very acceptable but the difference in flavours simply did not reflect the distance we have travelled from home.

7. In Hue we of course had to try the famous Bun Bo Hue (beef noodle soup with chili). It was again very agreeable but tasted like standard pho with a little added heat, no more.

8. In Hanoi we have been making every effort to get around the food zeitgeist.... Banh mi, quintessentially Vietnamese, this street food is a mixture of French and local styles being a fresh baguette filled with the specific vendors specialty. I have had a three meat Banh Mi which included pate, very tasty (recommended), and a BBQ pork skewer style, again very acceptable.

9. Pigs trotter pho, I had high hopes for this dish having sampled fabulous trotter dishes both at home and in Paris. Disappointing. Plain boiled trotter chopped into pho. Nothing special had been done with this unique ingredient and I am quite sure I was overcharged for the pleasure (double to be exact). A bad taste left in the mouth on every level.

10. Dry beef pho, a novel experience and well worth trying. I was pleasantly surprised by a Bun Bo Nam Bo consisting of lightly fried beef pieces, greens, noodles and a spike of lime juice with some dried onion & shrimp. Certainly worth a try but not mind blowing either.

The Vietnamese are fiercely proud of their cuisine to the extent that one young woman told me even though she had moved to Hanoi for University she would always want to move back to her home town (a mere 100km away) because the food there was so much better. Of course they are right to be proud, the food is local, very fresh and often traditionally prepared. These are the gastronomic traits most of us in the West now go out of our way to achieve in an era of convenience foods and GM produce. Having said that I find myself with a new respect for the better restaurants in our own Isle. The "authentic Asian" place down town is certainly not far from the genuine article and our exposure to such tastes at home has perhaps reduced many of our experiences here to "Oh ya, that's exactly like what we get from that place back home".

International Cuisine

Stop Five, Hanoi 25/04/2015 - 31/05/2015
(Written by Her)

We have been in Vietnam for far longer than the average backpacker and as such the food novelty has perhaps become a little bland. On numerous occasions we have decided to branch outside the traditional Vietnamese menu and try dishes from other exotic parts. In fact, we found that the choice and quality of international cuisine, particularly in Hanoi, is exceptional. While this sounds very positive, unfortunately little miss expensive tastes has fallen in love with some of the more luxurious restaurants in the city, often leaving our wallets a little worse for wear! I am always happier paying $0.50 for dinner even if it means sitting on tiny plastic chairs in the middle of the footpath. Anyway, I will let her take over & run through some of her favourites!

French
Fine French dining in La Verticale, hidden deep in the French Quarter. We couldn't resist the set lunch menu of 3 courses for as little as $15 per person. Just think what we would pay in France (at least that's what I was saying). He had pork belly and I had a meaty tuna steak with passion fruit sauce with a cheese plate to finish. Delicious food, a very grand French villa, polite wait staff and air conditioning = Heaven.

French Fusion
Again, fine french dining but this time with a Vietnamese twist. Luckily for me, the nicest French Fusion restaurant in Hanoi (Green Tangerine) is located directly across the road from our hotel in a beautifully restored colonial house. Diners sit around an outside cobbled courtyard adorned with stone carvings and pretty flowers. We had delicious seafood, duck and vegetarian dishes here. I have even dined alone, savoring new dishes when himself was otherwise engaged with students (Shh don't tell him that). The restaurant has won numerous certificates of Excellence and the standards are equal to that of Paris and London.

Japanese
I think most people are aware that Japanese food has to be in our top five favourite foods, so we couldn't pass up the opportunity to try the Sushi Bar in the Tien Trang Plaza. Offering sashimi, hotpots and various kinds of sushi, we didn't delay in filling our boots. We have returned a number of times and never fail to eat too much! That said the sushi, while delicious, still does not quite meet the standards of Taikichi in Limerick (which is a real credit to the city).

Korean BBQ
This DIY experience was probably the most daunting that we have encountered to date. With little English spoken by the staff, we were very much in the dark about what exactly we were ordering (as it turned out - a hell of a lot of food). Choosing the safest option, we went with the set menu for 2. In the end, our meal consisted of 16 dishes of vegetables (refilled each time they emptied), 3 plates of meat all barbecued at our table - very novel, hence all the photos! After some gesturing and laughing we finally realised that we were to fill large lettuce leaves with rice, beef, vegetables and sauce, then roll (like a spring roll) and enjoy! 'Rat ngon'

Fine Vietnamese Dining
Owned by the same Chef (Didier Corlou) as La Verticale, This restaurant Madame Hien is a tribute to his Vietnamese wife's grandmother and the Vietnamese style of cooking. The dishes represent the best of Vietnamese flavors served a la fine dining. Again we opted for the significantly cheaper set lunch option (dinner can go for up to $45 pp - expensive by Hanoi standards). We ate some Vietnamese classics such as; Banana flower salad with papaya, fresh spring rolls, seafood, pork and banana bread with ice-cream. Again, the setting was very atmospheric with a closed courtyard (complete with outdoor kitchen). The dining room is in a huge colonial villa, once owned by the French architect of the Hanoi Opera House. It even hosted the King (bet you didn't know that!).

Early Morning Feasts

To finish off this foodie blog, it's only fair to mention some of the amazing breakfasts we have had since we arrived. Given that most mid-range hotels throw in breakfast as part of their package, we weren't expecting too much. However, from home-stays to 3* hotels, we have been seriously impressed by the variety and standard of breakfasts across the board.

Pho is the standard option for most Vietnamese locals. It has been on all the breakfasts menus to date and on the street it is served from 6:30am until 9am. However, it is a little filling for Western stomachs so we were glad of alternatives.

Our hotel in Da Nang offered us fried eggs, Banh Mi and soy sauce! We were skeptical at first but soon realised how delicious a combination it really is - so much so that I have gone out early in the morning before breakfast, bought my own banh Mi (baguette) and ordered fried eggs with soy sauce so that I can make my own! This is one I'll take home with me!

The famous banana pancake. I say famous because we have been offered banana pancakes (no other variety), every morning in our Hanoi hotel! There are two methods of cooking; one where the banana slices are actually mixed with the pancake batter and cooked on the pan, the other where banana is simply placed inside a cooked pancake. The former is the more delicious by far.

Fresh Fruit has been on offer in every hotel. Most buffets consist of at least 50% fruit. Well, certain kinds of fruit; pineapple, watermelon, passion fruit and dragon fruit, oh and of course Bananas! Funnily enough we have never been offered apples (we saw them in the supermarket, but we have never seen them used). Cian reckons if he ever see's pineapple or watermelon again it will be too soon!!

Finally, our Hoi An hotel (Thanh Van 1) offered an amazing variety of breads, from chocolate bread to croissants. From custard pies to dough filled with rice. Really interesting flavours and plenty to go around - sometimes filling us until dinner! Anyone who spends a little extra on finding higher end accommodation in Vietnam is certainly in for a treat when it comes to buffet breakfasts!

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Down time....and Coffee in Hanoi

5/22/2015

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Stop Five, 25/04/2015 – 31/05/2015
(Written by Her)

Knowing that we have more time here in Hanoi has certainly effected our motivation for sightseeing. On days that are punishingly warm, we have taken to sitting in nearby coffee shops trying to get through the copious amounts of books that we had intended to read on our travels. We have convinced ourselves that by doing this we are actually killing 3 birds with one stone. Firstly, we are opening our minds – with our numerous books about Vietnamese history, economics and of course the obligatory Eat, Pray Love! Secondly, we are taking in the city vibe, watching street life and feeling part of the general hustle and bustle of the city’s old quarter. Finally, we are sampling the coffee!

Vietnam is the second largest exporter of coffee in the world! Who knew? First introduced by the French, coffee is the second most valuable agricultural product after rice. Even Nestle produces coffee here. Despite this, Vietnamese coffee has developed somewhat of a bad reputation abroad as the beans are generally used for instant coffee blends. Yet, in Vietnam, there seems to be an endless number of coffee concoctions. Despite our sampling, we still haven’t even scratched the surface of the varieties on offer.

The coffee culture in Hanoi is unsurpassed. I have never seen so many coffee shops and stores selling coffee beans (which of course we bought for home) in such close proximity. Locals spend countless hours on plastic chairs drinking the different combinations. Here are some of our favourites:

‘Legendee’ or Weasel Coffee

Cited as the world’s best iced coffee, Kopi Luwak Ca Phe. Kopi Luwak is the process whereby a ‘Civet’, an animal like a weasel, is fed coffee fruit. The civet choses only the best coffee fruit to eat and then the process begins. The enzymes in the Civet’s stomach react with the coffee fruit & separates the fruit from the bean. The following morning the Civet passes the bean through its digestive system and eventually into the hand of the collector (Yum!). The Kopi Luwak system apparently removes all the bitterness from the coffee. Although, to my uneducated coffee palette, it tasted almost identical to traditional coffee (not quite worth the $7 a cup). Nowadays, the process has been simulated under laboratory conditions – therefore, no civets were harmed in the tasting of this coffee!

Phin Filtered Coffee

When you order a cup of filtered coffee in Vietnam, you are actually presented with the filter itself. These filters, known as 'Phin filters' can be purchased pretty much everywhere around Hanoi. To make the coffee, the brewing chamber is filled with ground coffee (3 spoons as they like their coffee quite strong here), then hot water and the filter is placed over your cup. When your coffee is ready, you pour it over a glass of cracked ice. Refreshing!

Cà phê Sua (A slant on White Coffee)

My favourite coffee by far! It certainly satisfies my sweet tooth. Cà phê Sua is filtered coffee as above but rather than using fresh milk, the Vietnamese use condensed milk (yes the stuff from a tin). It is super thick and incredibly sweet but when mixed with strong coffee the results are delicious, particularly over ice with a straw. I’ll definitely be having this when I get home so get ready to try it out!

Cà phê trứng (egg coffee)

Only available in some hidden cafés dotted around Hanoi (we tried- Giang café – a Hanoi coffee shop that has been around for decades). You would never find this place unless you were looking. It’s down a tiny narrow alley way which eventually leads into a small quite coffee shop.

Egg coffee is as you might imagine – made with 1 or 2 whisked eggs, coffee and condensed milk. It's not the healthiest drink in the world but it's thick and creamy, sweet and delicious. We got ours served over a burning candle to keep it warm! Certainly novel...

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The Legend of Hoan Kiem Lake, Hanoi

5/19/2015

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Stop Five, 25/04/2015 – 31/05/2015
(Written by Her)

In the passing weeks, Hoan Kiem lake has become extremely familiar to us. We have visited it, dined in bars and restaurants overlooking it and driven around it almost every-day since our arrival in Hanoi. It’s clear that the lake is an essential sanctuary for citizens who spend most of their days in the maze of tiny streets, surrounded by concrete. In the mornings people flock to the lake to exercise (see our blog 'the early bird catches the beat'). In the afternoons, young students visit the lake in the hope of practicing their English with some willing foreigners. In the evening people sell their wares on the streets surrounding it. It is the point from which all distances in Hanoi are measured. It’s the Central Park of Hanoi.

Like everything in Vietnam, there is a legend attached to Hoan Kiem Lake. Hoan Kiem means ‘Lake of the restored sword’. The legend says that in the 15th Century, Emperor Le Loi was sent a sword from Heaven (a friend of his had caught it when fishing in the lake). After 10 years of battle, Le Loi was able to use the sword to drive the Chinese out of Vietnam. After the battle, a giant golden turtle surfaced from the lake, grabbed the sword in it’s mouth and disappeared into the murky water - returning it to the Heavens.

Ever since, each King has contributed to the lake by building reminders of the legend; such as Turtle Tower (which sits on an Island in the centre), Ngoc Son Temple and the Huc bridge (all pictured above). There are still turtles in Hoan Kiem lake, Asian soft-shelled freshwater giant turtles, but sighting them is a rare occurrence and is an omen of good luck (we are keeping our eyes peeled). For those not lucky enough to spot a turtle, there is a stuffed turtle, apparently weighing 250kgs, on display inside Ngoc Son Temple.

I don’t think it was quite the kind of turtle Cian is after!

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The Early Bird Catches the Beat, Hanoi

5/15/2015

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Stop Five, 25/04/2015 – 31/05/2015
(Written by him)

Vietnam has a tropical climate. During the months of April, May and June the temperature in the North (where we are now) is a relatively steady 35-36 degrees celsius with 80% - 90% humidity. Daily temperatures peak from 10am until 4pm which is almost the entire day. During those times the Vietnamese do not look to exert themselves in any way. If they are working (at least in shops, hotels etc.) they will sit with fans adjacent and move only slightly and as necessary. If they are not working they will sit at a street-side coffee or pho establishment and move even less. In fact it is not uncommon to see locals gently "resting their eyes" in the searing heat (I recall one young security officer perched outside a shop particularly in this regard).With such extended periods of inactivity visitors may well wonder how the Vietnamese manage to remain so trim and light in their appearance. In Hanoi, the secret lies around Hoan Kiem lake.

We rose at 5:30am just as dawn was breaking and made our way straight to nearby Hoan Kiem lake. There, everywhere, surrounding the lake on the public footpaths and open spaces were the locals of Hanoi, exercising like an olympic training camp in secret from the heat not-to-mention from your average western tourist, still slumbering in their air-conditioned hotel rooms. There were no prerequisites.

Children as young as 8 erect their badminton net next to the middle-aged men already playing đá cầu, a national Vietnamese game played on a badminton court with the object for players to keep a weighted shuttlecock in the air using kicking, knees and chest. There are women of all ages playing badminton wherever they can find enough space to rally, the more experienced looking having secured actual nets & courts. We had walked the area a number of times before this morning but we had, of course, failed to notice the faint lines of playing courts painted on the public footpaths. We had also missed the discrete nails protruding from surrounding trees which were in fact hammered with precise positioning allowing quick erection of nets at various points.

As we moved closer to the lake itself the scale of this mass activeness became apparent. As far as we could see people of every age were engaged in such a variety of physical pursuits it was difficult to comprehend everything at once. Women in their 30s and 40s were gyrating in unison to a speaker playing tame mid-tempo dance music. Beside them pairs of women worked with large red, Chinese fans in what looked like some graceful, mesmerizing martial art.

Men stood at the lakes edge air washing themselves vigorously as if rehearsing for a shower, frequently leaning back as far as they could to stretch and activate every muscle. Some men jogged, air boxed, completed standing push ups against the park benches or in one case, walked tight-rope like along the iron rung railing which circumscribed a large flower bed. Elderly men and women who felt unable to stand for too long simply sat on a bench and moved their arms in circles, eager to get their blood flowing and increase their heart rate without over exertion.

Further on we witnessed a group performing what looked to be a most static form of ti chi, holding a single position for up up to 60 seconds at a time before moving slowly to the next pose. To the ignorant (that would be us, your guides) it was a ritual best described as a series of interrogation-like stress positions and the concentration etched on the performers' faces was almost intimidating. Music and more dancing greeted us further on, unisex ballroom this time with couples spinning confidently among each other and passersby. No partner, no problem! One man was refreshingly uninhibited twirling alone, arms still poised to embrace his imaginary partner. Across the street a large concrete square was filled with even more dancers, at least 200, a group for each style, all moving to their own rhythm underneath the watchful bronze statute of Ho Chi Minh himself.

Finding an empty bench we just sat and marvelled at the spectacle. At first it was simply hard to comprehend. Hundreds of locals of every age and of both sexes, gathered here in this public space at the same time, completely unafraid to perform whatever activity they felt like in clear view of whoever might care to glance at them. There were no beach bods or yoga pants in sight either. There was no concern for form, perceived correctness or even practicality with some of the movements appearing questionable in terms of their benefit. After our initial disbelief faded we felt awe and respect.

Here were these people, some with very little means, making an effort before work and the heat of the day to look after themselves physically, in whatever way they saw fit, without fear of stares, sneers or stigma. It was as much a healthy attitude as a healthy activity and one we left feeling a little disappointed was not more prevalent in our Western image conscious culture.

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Booking a Cruise

Our Boat - The Emeraude

8:00 - Hanoi to Ha Long

12:30 - Embarkation & Lunch

14:00 - Free Time

15:00 - Sung Sot Grotto

16:30 - Pearl Farm

18:00 - Cookery Demonstration

20:00 - Squid Fishing

21:00 - Silver Screen

Day 2, 6:00 - Tai Chi

7:00 - Sea Kayaking

8:00 - Breakfast / Disembarkation

Museums in Hanoi

The Temple of Literature

The Hanoi Hilton

Water Puppet Theatre

Hanoi Citadel

Vietnamese Calligraphy Class

FHV Walking Tour

International Cuisine

Early Morning Feasts

‘Legendee’ or Weasel Coffee

Phin Filtered Coffee

Cà phê Sua (A slant on White Coffee)

Cà phê trứng (egg coffee)

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