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Borneo, Living the Dream

6/29/2015

Stop Eight, Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, Borneo (7/06/2015 to 13/06/2015)
(Written by Us)

Everyone meet Borneo, Borneo meet everyone. Ok, while politically, we are still in Malaysia, having taken the almost 3 hour flight over the South China Sea from Kuala Lumpur to Sabah, Malaysian Borneo certainly feels like a different animal altogether. Your passport is stamped "Entering Sabah", the modern infrastructure of KL has diminished, the people are descended from local tribes and just outside town lurks Borneo's rain forest, one of the worlds oldest and home to animals only found here on the largest island in Asia. Kota Kinabalu is our base for a week while we explore what this natural wonder has to offer.

Two days before we arrived the island had been rocked by Malaysia's strongest earthquake since 1976. Having its epicentre in Northern Sabah and reaching 6.0 on the Richter scale the quake had caused only minor structural damage but 18 climbers on Mt Kinabalu lost their lives with a further 127 climbers left stranded. Aftershocks had continued for the ensuing 24 hours and we were warned to expect more. A day of mourning had been declared for June 8th which was the day after we landed. Due to the emergency the President of Malaysia had flown to Sabah earlier in the day and his plane was parked next to ours on the apron of Kota airport.

The Minister for Tourism had very publicly blamed a group of young tourists for the earthquake stating that because they had been taking nude pictures of each other on the mountain they had angered the mountain spirits causing the quake. Mt Kinabalu was closed for a month immediately after the quake "for maintenance" and to perform a ritual to appease the spirits. The photo-happy tourists were prevented from leaving the island and were eventually charged with indecent behaviour and sentenced to 3 days in prison together with $1,000 fine each. Just like that our aspirations of bum pics at high altitude were dashed! Sorry folks.

Landing in Borneo was a dream come true for herself. It has been on her list of must-visits since I don't know when. She says since the first series of survivor (random). She has always thought that Borneo must be somewhere special and she wasn't wrong, but it wasn't without its challenges. Kota Kinabalu (KK) was a shock to the system after Kuala Lumpur. Naively we were expecting to see some high rise buildings, a transport system, some tourist facilities. Not so. Despite being built along a waterfront, KK is not a pretty city (it has open drainage systems which cause a stench in the heat of the day), its waters are badly polluted with rubbish, it is not comfortably walkable and it is not very modern. What KK has in its favour is the natural world, the one you see on David Attenbourogh documentaries, on its doorstep.

Within 2 hours drive from KK, is the tallest mountain in Malaysia, Mount Kinabalu in Kinabalu heritage park - a World Heritage Site. Borneo is the only place in the world to see Organ-utans in the wild, or to see Raffesia, the world’s largest flowering plant. It has rain forest discovery centres, sun bears, proboscis monkeys, tropical islands with crystal clear waters. Scientists, botanists and naturalists flock to Borneo to do research on its flora and fauna. In fact, we sat beside a table of such scientists in a coffee shop and listened to them discussing the best way to take blood samples from birds. What we didn’t see in Borneo was other tourists. We saw maybe a handful of white people, some of whom were married to KK residents and others who were researchers but that was it. We were back to getting the odd stare and questions about where we had come from and where we were going.

KL had been a whirlwind and we were a little behind in our planning so we spent our first day around Kota Kinabalu town, eating, souvenir shopping and planning the rest of our stay. For various reasons we would be staying in 3 separate hotels throughout our time here before pushing on to Brunei so the logistics had to be worked out carefully. Amazingly we hit on the local Irish bar within the hour, overpriced and not an Irish staff member in sight we passed by but it was strangely comforting to see the place anyway. We had lunch on the waterfront (fish of course) overlooking the bay and islands lying just off shore.

That night back at the hotel we met Ly Ly. A local woman and the lounge manager she was fantastic craic, if a little crazy. Ly Ly was also in charge of the karaoke machine which she clearly felt was her true calling. The fact there was only 2 tired looking Irish people in the whole place didn't take the wind out of her sails one bit. We will be recommending Ly Ly's Celine Dion rendition for the next Borneo Lonely Planet guide. Within the hour we were taking selfies together and looking at photos of her daughter heading off to University in KL. Ly Ly also told us about her earthquake experience giving us a first hand account of how terrified people had felt at the time

Next morning we grabbed the shuttle bus into town and immediately set about negotiating a taxi for a few hours. Cars are the only way to get around Kota with most of the towns attractions on the outskirts. Today we planned to visit the city mosque built along the coast, the Wetlands wildlife reserve and Sabah museum. The city mosque, designed to replicate the mosque of Medina, Islam's second holy place, cost 34 million RM and is a popular tourist destination.

We had missed the registration kiosk in the car park and were now faced with either turning back or putting the heads down and driving on. We did not turn back. Sandals left at the door we made our way into the large reception area. On either side were the wash areas, one for men, the other for women. Beyond the sliding doors of the reception area was the huge sparse area for prayers and sermons. There wasn't a single chair in sight, instead the whole floor was covered in prayer mats facing Mecca, underneath the Mosque's huge dome. The interior was palatial and very expensive looking.

We had not expected to be allowed take photographs inside but when we saw visiting Muslims with their selfie-sticks we took advantage snapping what we could. It was not long however before a very polite young Muslim man came over to us and asked herself if she could please "cover up". Wrists and ankles were obviously still too much. We thanked him and quietly made our exit.

While both sexes are required to dress conservatively, it should be no surprise that females are expected to be more conservative than men. Herself brought her own hijab and was wearing pants below the knee and a blouse with sleeves coming well below the elbow. We took most of our photos outside this stunning building as we made our way to the main entrance.

The Sabah Wetlands reserve is a large area of estuary, untouched except for the wooden walkway built 3 feet above the marsh which leads visitors around the 1.5km nature walk. Teaming with wildlife (apparently) the highlight is catching a glimpse of Borneo's indigenous birds nesting among the millions of very tall trees which enclose the walkway and surrounding environment. We arrived at about 12pm, not the recommended time for bird spotting but we were confident of seeing enough to make the trip worth our time. Collectively we saw two crabs and a lizard. Clearly our optimism was misplaced.

We did also see a web large enough to look like it belonged to something exciting but thats all. Herself saw the manager's kitten which was also quite nice. The Wetlands are pretty impressive by themselves as a landscape but Borneo is about animals for us and we saw very little. Obviously the early bird catches a lot more than the simple worm in Borneo. Needless to say we wasted little time in pressing on to our next destination, mindful of our 2 hour taxi agreement.

Sabah's museum is the largest in Malaysian Borneo and offers a good overview of what northern Borneo has to offer if a little old fashioned in its decor and displays. After being unsuccessful in our vigorous attempts to pay the considerably cheaper entrance fee for locals we headed inside. A massive whale skeleton greets guests in the cavernous ground floor area. We may not have been able to capture the scale with our covert photos (no cameras allowed) but the skeleton was very impressive. Also on the ground floor were photographs taken by various Western explorers who had made the long and arduous trek to Borneo in the 19th & early 20th Centuries hopeful of discovering both new tribes and new animals previously unknown to the rest of the world. These brave and pioneering men made some of the most significant contributions to science in history.

Upstairs houses the natural history section where pictures and even preserved real-life samples of some of the indigenous species are on display. Sun bears, spiders, reptiles, crocodiles, monkeys and orang utans all feature. On from these are photographs and artefacts associated with the various tribes of Borneo including the headhunting Murut and Iban tribes. Having studied some of the rituals of the Iban tribe trough sociology, seeing these displays was a real treat for us. Headhunting served a variety of purposes among the different tribes including the acquisition of a slave in the afterlife, the rite of passage into manhood and spiritual protection for the tribal village. The last recorded headhunting in Malaysian Borneo occurred as recently as WWII. While in Indonesian Borneo in the South of the island incidents reminiscent of headhunting occurred during a 2001 tribal conflict. We ran over our 2 hours by almost 40 minutes but our driver never mentioned it and so neither did we.

After moving hotels first thing in the morning of day 3 we headed for Kota's Jesselton Pier. Today we were going off shore to one of Northern Borneo's coastal islands. There are plenty of islands to choose from, each with its own unique selling point. Naturally there are also plenty of boat operators vying for your business and she was quickly able to negotiate a significant price reduction from the advertised amount.

We hopped on the speedboat with a group of Chinese guys and skimmed across the ocean for the 15 minute jaunt to Manukan island, one of five islands which make up Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park - Malaysia's first Marine National Park. The place is everything a tropical island paradise should be. Palm trees, white sandy beaches, clear blue waters, tropical fish, coconuts and of course relentless sunshine. Manukan was popular this day with a nice crowd of locals and tourists creating a lively yet comfortable crowd. After hiring beach mats and snorkels we were still able to find a shady spot under a low leaning palm tree on the quite side of the jetty.

I'm from Cork, herself is a Kilkenny woman, neither a snorkelling stronghold! Unsure what to expect we gingerly waded out into the warm water. After a mouthful of salt water it did not take long to get the hang of things and soon we were swimming up and down the shore line heads firmly below the surface. We didn't need to go far at all before our first encounter. A hoard of blue and white striped fish were schooling right in the shallows about waist deep. They were amazingly friendly little fellas and never seemed bothered when we swam through them. In fact they were as inquisitive as we were at times coming after us at one point and surrounding herself playfully.

A little further out there were even more species to spot. Rainbow coloured fish, bright green and purple, about the length of a forearm picked at mossy rocks on the sea floor. Leopard spotted fish and larger pale clear white fish swam solo in amongst the smaller schooling species. We saw hoards of fish that looked like millions of tiny glass shards sparkling just below the surface bouncing from side to side in the waves. In all we spotted 11 different fish species in the space of 90 minutes all in no more than 5-6 ft of water.

It was incredible to be so close to what are for most of us very elusive creatures and particularly impressive when we had never seen fish like these anywhere before. A firm trip highlight for sure! We spent another hour drying on the beach, collecting shells and chatting with some other travellers. The speedboat back to Kota was not as smooth as the exhilarating trip out earlier that day. The boat broke down 3 times and was met with helpful suggestions such as swimming the rest of the way or getting out and pushing. Luckily we were in no rush at all!

Day four and another hotel move first thing in the morning. After checking our bags into hotel no.3 we headed back into town for some breakfast. Today was wildlife day of the land variety! With the mountain area closed our options were limited in terms of getting to grips with Borneo's wildlife. After the obligatory negotiating with our taxi driver we secured a third off the asking price and headed out of town once more.

Borneo for me (herself) was all about nature and wildlife, in particular Orangutans. Anyone who has researched a visit to Borneo probably knows that the best place to see Organ-utans in the wild is in a nature reserve in Sepilok (Northern Sabah). Unfortunately, this is a 6 hour drive from Kota Kinabalu so not really an option for us. Instead we decided to visit a wildlife reserve closer to KK, within 2 hours drive. We hired ourselves a taxi and set off into the rain forest and up the side of a mountain. Upon entry, we were given a map and set off on our walk (i.e. hike!). The park covers an area of 280 acres and the trail, approx. 2km in length winds up and down hills along the side of the mountain. The park houses some exotic and endangered wild animals who are native to Borneo, most notably sun bears, orangutans and proboscis monkeys.

We made our way first to see the sun bears. Classified as vulnerable with a declining population due to deforestation in SE Asia, sunbear (also known as honey bears) are amazing creatures. They are very placid animals and were incredibly friendly, coming over to investigate when we arrived. All black, with a collar of white, have long sharp claws, enabling them to climb trees and an incredibly long tongue helping them to pursue insects or honey. They are the smallest of all bears (probably what makes them so cute). They feed mostly on honey, bees and insects. Given their interest in us when we visited, we got some nice sun bear selfies- what more could you want!

Next we head to the Orang-utans. I was very excited about seeing Orang-utans in their natural habitat as they are now endangered and are only found in the rainforest in Borneo and Sumatra. When we arrived, a family of orang-utans were playing close by. One was tearing bark from a log, a younger one was observing. As the most intelligent primates, orang-utans have been studied for many years. They are both solitary and social animals who build very elaborate nests (complete with pillows, blanket and roof).

One of the most interesting thing about orang-utans is that (according to a German study), they can calculate reciprocity, meaning they can weigh up the pros and cons of gift exchanges and they can keep track of them - like humans. Watching the family of orang-utans was a surreal experience. It was as though I could tell exactly what was happening in the interaction. The father was breaking the branch and eating it, the mother was watching and wondering if she would be given some, the child came over to investigate but the mother pulled him out of the way.

It was the closest thing to a human interaction I have ever seen from animals. We got some amazingly up-close photos and really enjoyed the visit. Funnily enough, for the entire time we stood and watched, it felt as though we were being observed just as much!

Unfortunately for us, the proboscis monkey viewing platform was under construction on the day we visited. Lets hope we can catch them elsewhere. Luckily on our way back to the entrance to find our driver we did catch a glimpse of a few otters, elephants and a sumatran tiger, as you do!

Our fifth day was set aside for the peoples of Borneo. We were making our way to the Mari Mari tribal village hidden deep in the hilly outlying forests an hour out of town. The village boasts a number of traditional long houses, each one finished to replicate the specific details unique to some of the indigenous tribes of Borneo. The sense of history and primitive existence was immediate.

As our mini-van, driven by a descendant of the Duson tribe, entered the village I spotted a woman with her young children washing in the river under the morning sun. Straight away I knew I had to have a photo of this scene, unchanged for God knows how many decades. I asked for permission with what little Malay I had and she cheerfully obliged. Our guide told us that our group of 10 would have to choose a leader to represent the group as we entered the headhunting Murut area.

The leader would have to answer questions posed by the tribal chief before permission to enter could be granted. I was kindy volunteered to be our leader by herself...thanks for that! We made our way across a long wooden bridge above the rocky, fast flowing river into the village. This house was a replica of those used by the Duson tribe. Headhunting farmers, these people would hang a head above the tangkob or grain store kept adjacent to the house. The head spirit was believed to protect the grain from thieves. As with all the long houses the boys and girls slept separately, the girls having a room built off the ground accessible only by a ladder which their father would remove at night time. The boys often had no room and sometimes slept outside. The girls were heavily protected by their fathers at every turn. Their clothes displayed whether they were married or not, long sleeves for single, no sleeves for married. The Rungus long house had a section of the roof which could be lifted off to allow air to circulate. They worshiped crocodiles and would proudly display a crocodile skull in their house as a sign that they were protected by the spirit of the crocodile.

The Lundayne tribe were seaside dwellers and expert divers. They could swim very fast and dive beneath the water for 5-7 minutes at a time. They prized a particular type of crab which was elusive and lived in deep waters on the sea floor. The would display the shells of the crab to show how good the divers of the family were. Along the way we were given samples of food and drink and even herbal medicine the tribes people would have had. Rice, chicken, banana leaf and garlic placed in a bamboo shoot and roasted over an open flame made a surprisingly tasty meal.

Washed down with some fermented rice wine and the stronger distilled rice wine, both drank while eating eels soaked in wine which would enable the reveller to increase his intake and drink for longer. Bamboo was used for almost everything, ladders, spears, stilts of houses, house frames, tools, cooking, furniture and a fire staring kit. These people were geniuses at finding ways to use bamboo to meet their various needs.

Finally we were approaching the Murut headhunters house, set apart from the others our guide advised us to form a single line and to not smile or laugh, take our hands out of pockets but don't put them on your hips and simply wait until the leader of the group (yours truly) had been granted permission to enter. As we approached the house we were set upon by screaming Murut men. They came from the bushes and surrounded us, inspecting each individual. The chief in full, feathery head gear approached me head on. He put his right had on my left shoulder and I was to put my right hand on his left shoulder. He asked me the questions and once satisfied we were coming in peace we could enter. The Murut longhouse had one very special feature of a trampoline built beneath the floor.

A removable patch of the main floor revealed a large square of timbers, lashed together and held in place by flexible bamboo poles fixed into a sturdy frame. The trampoline was used as part of a game where 4 tribes boys would stand on the trampoline, one at each corner and bend & straighten their knees vigorously getting the board to bounce. A fifth boy in the centre would at a precise moment jump from the trampoline as high as possible to reach the ribbons hanging from the roof. The highest jump wins.

The Murut also used blow guns to fire poison tipped darts into animals and enemies alike. We were each allowed to try the blow gun, a long narrow wooden tube about a metre in length with a sharp blade attached to the end like the bayonet of a rifle. The darts appeared flimsy and we were warned more than once not to inhale the dart as we drew breath to blow. The weapon was amazingly powerful and the darts could travel a good distance without dropping from their trajectory. At the end of the tour we were invited to have a meal made using the ancient tribal cooking techniques including stewed fish, open flame roasted chicken, water spinach and of course rice. It was a fantastic way to get a real feel for each of the different indigenous tribes and appreciate the subtle differences which co-existed on the island for hundreds of years.

A special mention...

Not 5 minutes from our last hotel in Kota is the town's crowded slum. Comprising thrown together shacks resting precariously on stilts above a floor of marsh, muck, sewerage and rubbish are some of the worst and most degrading abodes I have ever seen. The walls and roofs of corrugated iron and ply wood many with gapping holes, allowing rain, vermin or nosey passers by an easy entrance to these peoples homes and lives. Populated mostly by illegal immigrant Filipinos these people try to eek out an existence here in this part of wealthy Malaysia.

They will be tolerated by the locals and the government until their cheap labour is no longer required or the area is designated for development. Despite the horrific conditions I still received a smile and a wave from one of the young female residents as I walked along a rickety, narrow, wooden gangway that traverses the slum some 4 feet above the filth. I thought of the children she would raise here and how worried she must be for their health & welfare in such a place. I never felt more grateful for the privileges I am blessed with at home.

Having seen modern Borneo throughout the town of Kota Kinabalu on our first day, cultural Borneo in the mosque and Sabah museum on the second day, Borneo under the sea on Manukan island on day 3, wildlife Borneo on day 4 and finally the peoples of Borneo on day 5 we were feeling hugely satisfied.

On our last day we decided to simply go with the flow. The town was having its annual dragon-boat race on the nearby Likas Bay. So under the distant gaze of Kota's mosque we settled in with the locals to watch the competition between Sabah's boating enthusiasts. The dragon boats used by each team are identical. Long and historic looking each boat has a wooden head and tail of a dragon. At the front of each boat is a large drum which is beaten by the cox to keep the 20 strong team of rowers in time.

From the tented spectator area it was difficult to get a clear view of the action and excitement seemed hard to come by without a vested interest in the outcome. Finding a gap in the crowd we made our way down to the shore line where the competitors both launched and returned. Things certainly picked up from this vantage point as we witnessed team members being stretchered from returning boats, passed out from exhaustion, coaches surveying the waves through tinted binoculars and family members screaming their encouragement and congratulations to their returning heroes.

In between fish balls with chili sauce and Taiwanese chilled tea our last day in Malaysian Borneo was just the right tempo for a little relaxation before a whirlwind 31 hours in Brunei Darussalam, our next stop!

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3 Weeks of Our Life!

6/19/2015

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We have been so busy moving around, sightseeing, changing currency, getting visas, meeting new people and learning new things in the last few weeks that we almost forgot to stop and take it all in. We decided to compile a quick photo diary which shows exactly where we have been and the highlight of each day. It's hard to believe what we've achieved in such a short period of time. What could you achieve in 3 weeks if you set your mind to it???

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Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

6/12/2015

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Stop Seven, Kuala Lumpur 2/06/2015 to 7/06/2015
(Written by Him)

In recent times more and more Irish people are passing through Kuala Lumpur than ever before. The airports of KL and Dubai are the lay-over destinations for those flying between London and Australia. So while most of us are now broadly aware of KL far less have ventured outside of its impressive airport. We did, spending 6 days in one of the world's most amazing cities!

Malaysia's capital city, Kuala Lumpur (literally translated as "muddy estuary") has come along way from its humble beginnings as a 19th century Chinese mining territory. This unlucky settlement was destroyed by both fire and flood in 1881. A British man, Frank Sweetenham designed a new layout for the town and ordered the rebuilding of destroyed buildings be made out of brick and tile, modelled on Southern Chinese architecture. By 1886 the town was chosen to be the capital of the newly formed Federated Malay states (under British rule) and was in turn settled by a mix of peoples all having some vested interest including, Chinese, Indian Muslims and of course the British ruling class.

6th Airport and still smiling!

Having travelled back to KL airport arrivals lounge after the wonderful AVANI resort, we took the 28 minute express train into KL Sentral, the main connection hub in the heart of the city. Our first real experience of Kuala Lumpur came from chatting with our taxi driver as we sped through the rain to our hotel. "Everyone comes here except for Americans, we are Islamic and they think if you have a beard you are going to blow them up". The jovial stereotyping continued until we reached our hotel by which time we certainly knew the best and worst of the KL cultural meting pot, at least from one perspective. After checking in to our new digs we took an evening walk around our immediate area to get our bearings. Our hotel was on a primarily Indian street with shops selling flowery garlands for Hindu celebrations and an array of curry houses and cheap jewellers.

Through the nearby central market housing indigenous handicrafts we unintentionally stumbled across a guide book restaurant recommendation. Restoran Yusoof dan Zakhir is a large canteen style eatery cooking traditional mamak food - Indian Islamic. No pork and everything Halal with the all male staff wearing the traditional kufi hats. We were quickly shown to a table and presented with the well worn single-page menus. While we went by the written descriptions this first night we did not restrain ourselves the other two nights we returned to Yusoof's!

It really is a place where one should simply let their eyes and nose lead them: in one corner was the tandoori station - a huge clay cauldron, roasting hot where naan was flung in from baking stones and generously spice rubbed chicken joints were cooked on long skewers to the most awesome shade of dark red perfection; behind tandoori man stood the curry king, a huge & happy Indian-Malay barricaded behind trays of the best smelling curries - lamb, chicken, beef or fish, he heaps some rice on the centre of your plate before encouraging you to help yourself.

Together with naans and roti of every description, dahl dips on the side, the food in this place was fantastic and the best I have had since our trip began. I was more than a little enthusiastic. The teh-tarik (local tea with condensed milk served hot or cold) flowed very easily and when it came to the bill we were delighted at how reasonable the price was.

You may have noticed that we were thoroughly impressed by KL's multiculturalism. This diversity was most noticeable in the style of women's fashion. In a country that is approx. 80% Muslim we were immediately aware of the significant volume of hijabs and niqabs, something we just didn't see in Vietnam. The colours and the variety of ways to wear these head pieces transformed this religious symbol into something very chic. We were so taken with them that herself went into an Islamic "Penneys" equivalent and bought some of these versatile garments. The shop was very busy with Muslim women only and for the first time in Malaysia we certainly got some looks.

I waited outside with the other men wearing their long white dress-like Muslim clothes and hats. We had to YouTube how to properly wear what she had bought. We also couldn't help but be distracted by the stunning Indian clothes on display around the city. Women wearing full length Saris and Salwars in the most magnificent shades of deep purple, pink & turquoise, complete with bindis and costume broaches, passed us on their way home from work. The younger Indian women also had nose piercings and henna decorations on their hands and arms making them look beautifully mysterious and otherworldly. We made a mental note to pick up some of these pieces when ever we saw them.

On the morning of day two we set off on foot for Merdeka Square. This significant patch of grass has a checkered history. Literally translated as "Independence square" or "Freedom Square" it was here in 1957 that the Union Jack was lowered for the last time and the Malaysian flag run up the 95 metre flag pole, one of the highest in the world. Up to that point the British colonials had used the site for their cricket practice. The square is used for the annual Malay independence day parade as well as various minor festivals and events. The weather was exceptionally hot this morning but the square is well equipped with shady stone gazebos and impressive aerial water features all providing cooler spots for tourists and locals alike to admire the area comfortably out of the direct heat. Across from the square stands the Sultan Abdul Samad Building, now used by a Government Ministry, this beautiful Indian Muslim style building is very eye catching and certainly took up as much of our photo storage as the square itself. Nestled beside the square and old main rail station is the KL City Gallery. This attraction boasts one of the more well known photo ops with a large, red I "heart" KL sculpture out front where visitors can be snapped lounging on the letters in uncomfortable poses. Check ours out!

Inside the gallery is a brief history of KL and upstairs the spectacular model of the entire city (40ft by 50ft) which forms the basis of a light show and is the first of its kind in SE Asia. I thought the show itself was a little bland, a screen at the back listing slick facts about the city while areas of the model where awkwardly and dimly lit in synchronization. It was not until the main lights came back on that we could fully appreciate the scale and intricacy of the model city. We quickly broke the "no photo" rule when no one was looking. Returning downstairs we could see the model makers, working in a large glass walled room.

That afternoon we hit Chinatown. A bustling, jam-packed area of about 4 streets, each adorned with long strings of red Chinese lanterns where street vendors pile in on top of each other vying for your attention. The good humoured vendors called to passers-by to 'come haggle with me'. Rather than feeling hassled and ripped off, the whole experience was taken in good jest and very enjoyable. Out of what must have been 200 stalls the vast majority were selling the same t-shirts, "genuine copy" handbags, pens, sunglasses and watches. We had come for the food and to see the Chinese culture being preserved at such a distance from their home. Of course such lofty pursuits devolved rapidly into haggling for handbags and souvenirs, Lets just say a few bargains were had! Herself was born to haggle. The experience was well worth the visit however and in fact we ended up re-visiting the area before leaving KL.

There were some real Chinese gems to be found such as sticky pork skin slices and chicken feet. Most of the restaurants were run by second generation Chinese who will talk to each other in Mandarin instead of the local Malay. The food was as Chinese as you would get anywhere and for lunch we munched our way through real prawn crackers, blackened chili chicken, egg fried rice, fried pork noodles and Chinese chicken satay. Even though we ordered small portions we still had to leave food behind. We headed back to the Central market for a quick browse on the way home. She decided to further the Indian experience with a henna tattoo from finger tip to elbow. Having negotiated the deal with Indian-Malay granny, it was her nephew that applied the quirky design in just 5 minutes.

The following day we were meeting an old Malaysian friend, Hong, for lunch. Having lived together in first year college, herself and Hong had not seen each other in 10 years. To make our 12:30 date we set off early to fit in Menara KL (KL tower). Completed in 1995 this huge tower used for telecommunication transmission is the 7th largest tower of its kind in the world and offers the highest viewing point in Kuala Lumpur. We took the free goKL City bus, a short walk and then a free 2 minute shuttle bus from the entrance gate to the door of the tower itself. From hotel to attraction for free, KL was looking better and better. We bought a ticket for the observation deck and the aquarium which sits at the bottom of the tower (next to the mini zoo no less).

There is a tree growing beside the tower which sums up the attitude of this eco-conscious super city. The Jelutong tree is a rare species, this one over 100 years old. In order to keep the tree in its original position the tower location was shifted and soldier piles were installed during the tower's construction to protect the tree at an additional cost of RM 430,000. We took the lift to the observation platform which brings guests up the 22 stories in just 54 seconds. The views as you would expect are exceptional and there really is no other way to comprehend the scale and the height of KL. The pictures describe the scene better than I ever could. The aquarium felt very much like an afterthought compared to the tower but I like aquariums and this one satisfied my proclivities.

With 30 minutes to spare before lunch we popped into the Weld shopping mall for a nosey. Even this small centre, away from the main shopping district of Bukit Bintang felt impressive with its many levels and open courtyard-style central column. We met Hong across from her office, a huge banking centre, and hopped on the free bus to The Pavillion. Across a skywalk and down at least 5 escalators we reached the basement floor food court. The place was enormous with at least 5 restaurants for every type of food you could think of. We walked for a long time, still never reaching the end of this vast array, until we came to Madam Kwan's Malaysian Restaurant (where the lady herself can sometimes be spotted).

This was the place to try local food our host assured. Armed with our menu recommendations we ordered nasi lemak (chicken drumsticks with coconut rice in a delicious deep red spice sauce), sardine and noodle broth, and seafood and flat noodle stir-fry. For dessert we had the locally named "ABC" which is flavoured crushed ice, sitting on top of smooth jelly with tiny sweet vegetables like corn and peas in the bottom. It was so different but exactly what you would crave on a hot day. We chatted about life in KL with Hong and after getting some great insider info we hugged our goodbyes and wandered around this huge and expensive shopping world for another hour. Scared off by the prices (more expensive than the EU due to taxes), we hopped on the free bus back 'home'.

We had set aside the next day for the Golden Triangle area. Although this district includes The Pavilion centre today we were heading for Petronas Towers. These twin skyscrapers are the tallest in the world but they do not dominate the KL skyline when sat amongst so many other very tall buildings. Getting to the towers was almost as impressive as the towers themselves. We took the free bus to one of the city rail stations where we expected to hop on the monorail line to bring us the rest of the way.

We entered the rail station and were able to immediately begin following signs for the towers. It wasn't until we had walked for about 5 minutes that we realised we were going to be able to take this skywalk all the way to the towers without any additional transport. A trip that would have taken 30 minutes to walk through the city streets in the heat was made so pleasurable by a cool, airy skywalk built as the crow flys directly to the attraction (overground and then underground). Again completely free trip from hotel to destination. So tourist friendly. The towers double as offices as well as tourist attraction. The ground floor is dedicated to Petronas souvenirs and outside, fountains & huge water features create excellent photo backdrops. We snapped as many shots of each other as we could in between many groups of other tourists.

That afternoon we headed back to KL tower to the level above the observation deck we had already visited heading for the revolving restaurant (Atmosphere 360). A huge buffet of Indian, Chinese, Western and Malay cuisine was spread along the centre static island. From there diners step on to the revolving area where the tables and chairs are spread out in front of the 360 degree window views over the city. A full rotation takes one hour. As we entered the restaurant we were asked not only for our names but the name of our hotel and the room number! I had to ask the reasoning at that point and the girl said it was because so many people lost their belongings in the restaurant. It was not until we sat down at our table that we finally understood how easily such a thing could happen. As we put our bags on the floor beside our table and started to tuck into our buffet, the floor beneath us kept moving, while the floor beneath our bags was stationary. Without realising it, our bags had drifted to the empty table beside us in a matter of minutes. Lesson learned!

Eating while revolving is a "should try" experience but it certainly has the potential to create nausea. I found it easier to do one or the other so between courses I enjoyed the views but while eating it was firmly eyes down. A rare experience, worth the extra $$. The food, staff and of course views were excellent.

Our last day in KL was one of highs & lows, and I am not talking about towers this time! We planned to take the hop on - hop off bus around the wider city area getting off at two sites for a closer look. KL maintains the world's largest covered bird park at 29.5 acres, tropical species galore flying freely within this massive walk-in aviary.

The other area we selected was Little India in Brickfields, the historical site where the brick and tile used to re-build KL under Sweetenham's direction was manufactured. We got up early and made the short walk to Merdeka Square where the bus stopped. This day however the square was closed to traffic facilitating a music event. Local info confirmed the bus would stop close-by and we should wait at a particular junction. After almost an hour in the searing heat...you guessed it, no bus.

Frustrated we walked around looking for someone better informed. A nearby shop told us the bus stopped at the other end of the square! Full of renewed optimism off we went. Another hour later and still no bus. Optimism had soured in the relentless heat to absolute frustration. The day was slipping away. In the end we had to approach two separate taxis before the second would take us to the main KL tourist office where the bus made its first stop. The morning felt completely wasted at the time but in fact during those hours that we waited we saw a Muslim photo shoot, spoke with an extremely nice Chinese-Malay man who looked 50 but claimed to be a shocking 70 years old. We also spoke with some Chinese women handing out flyers describing the persecution a certain demographic was battling in China. The privilege of protesting and disseminating such information is a right these women could not exercise in their home country, here they had freedom of speech.

Finally on the bus we enjoyed the open top tour immensely and quickly left the morning's troubles behind us. We now only had time for one stop however and we opted for Little India. From the bus stop in Brickfields the main street stretches out in front, running from a large elephant style fountain (a symbol for overcoming one's obstacles) past shops selling beautifully coloured fabrics, Indian clothes & jewellery, vegetable stands and vast welcoming eateries. There is also a series of yellow arches with pink tinge along the footpath which really lifts the area and gives it a vibrant and exciting feel.

Herself was like a spritely hare out of the traps, immediately hitting the shops with gusto. The Indian culture is displayed most prominently through female fashion and most of the shops only sold items for women. We looked at over-priced saris, bindi make-up, delicate embellished pumps and arrays of rings, piercings and necklaces.

My interests were also indulged as we grabbed a table in a busy canteen, downing mango lassis, mutton masala, roti canni and banana rice with heaps of assorted veg sides. While everyone around us ate with their fingers (right hand only), I still felt transported to Bangalore for an hour, despite my fork and spoon.

Hopping back on the bus we finished the rest of the city tour. The bus stopped for an extended 10 minute pick-up outside the bird park, just enough time for everyone to snap a few monkeys swinging freely onto the footpath and road adjacent to their climbing area. It was a very unexpected treat to get up close to these native animals when we hadn't even planned on the stop. On we rolled, past the very impressive state mosque and planetarium. A very nice little girl, wearing her hijab in the car next to us waved madly as we sat in traffic together while at the same time the Indian kids on the seats in front of us were trying to sing the theme song from Disney's "Frozen" in perfect unison. Kuala Lumpur, what a cool city!

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AVANI Heaven, Malaysia

6/11/2015

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Stop Six, Sepang 01/06/2015 to 02/06/2015
(Written by Him)

After 2 months living in Vietnam we thought the best way to ease our transition back to frequent travelling was with a little luxury. We booked ourselves one night of indulgence at the AVANI Gold Coast Resort in Sepang, 45 minutes drive from KL airport. We took a prepaid taxi through the beautiful Malaysian countryside, world class highways lined with lush palm tree plantations and not a moped in sight!

As we turned the corner into the resort, we were greeted by unobstructed views of the ocean, glistening in the sunshine. The doorman took our bags and led us into the grand entrance hall to check in. What a shock to the system after rickshaws and touts in Hanoi.

The AVANI Resort is a self-contained destination with approx. 100 spacious over water holiday suites. Yep, over water, as in stilts, sea, sun and thatched roof. Over water villas are amongst the most expensive accommodation in the world, reaching a thousand dollars per night in the Maldives. Because of its location in SE Asia, AVANI has somewhat more affordable rates so it's worth checking out if you're in the vicinity. The resort was extremely busy during our stay so pre-booking is essential. The Resort boasts 5 restaurants, a private beach, 2 bars, a spa and a gym with a view.

After our bags were brought to our room and we had freshened up in the double-door en-suite bathroom we headed for the infinitely pool overlooking the Malaysian Strait of Malacca to drink in the splendor. We spent a couple of hours reading in the cabana area before taking a dip and a few obligatory photos of our feet!! The weather was a few degrees cooler than Vietnam which made all the difference. The other guests comprised a mix of every race and creed including Indian, Australian, Islamic and Chinese. Everyone was relaxed and very open to meeting their diverse peers.

The Muslim women wore full body swim suits complete with hood, the Chinese are eager for their children to practice some English with the pale Westerners (us) and the Malay are probably the most friendly and cheerful people I have ever met.

Due to the size of the resort, a shuttle service is in operation between reception, your villa and the restaurant complex. After spending some time on our private balcony, watching some workers thatch the villa roof directly across from us, we grabbed a shuttle and headed for dinner. We decided on an Asian buffet. The Malay staff were attentive and very friendly and the food was incredible. We were presented with a selection of food to feed an army, with everything from Italian caprese salad and Malaysian Crab to Mongolian beef and Chinese duck. With full bellies, and after taking in the "unique" (read lack-lustre) evening cabaret, "Colours of Malaysia" we slept soundly under electric blue lightening flashing across the night sky.

Rising to catch the sunrise, the next morning we had an early breakfast beside the pool. It was a pleasurable and reassuring experience to spend time with such an eclectic mix of people, all in the one place. In our short time in AVANI we met a Taiwanese family and a Japanese couple, not to mention the numerous other nationalities present. I found myself imagining what it would be like to bring my own child here on holidays and watch him or her play with other children from all over the world. What a fantastic way for a child to learn about different ways of life. After a final dip in the infinity pool, we reluctantly admitted it was time to leave this artificial pleasure haven and head into the big city to properly explore this new country.

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Things you didn't know about Vietnam

6/11/2015

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Stop Five, Hanoi 25/04/2015 to 31/05/2015
(Written by Her)

Conical Hats

Made from palm leaf and bamboo, the conical hat must be the most widely recognizable symbol of Vietnam. During our time here we have seen the Vietnamese shade themselves with conical hats from the searing sun, we have seen tourists wear lopsided versions which seem to act as $$ signs over their head as they traipse around souvenir shops, and we’ve seen locals making conical hats in a Hue village. Now becoming part of Vietnamese national dress, conical hats can be seen on postcards worn by beautiful women, seeming so oriental and romantic, yet they have quite a sad reality in contemporary Vietnam. In Hanoi, conical hats are worn by women who originate from the countryside and come to the city to sell their wares. Conical hats would never be worn by urbanites who spot poorer rural vendors easily because of their hat. It has come to be a symbol of poverty in the city.

Bath plugs

Baths in Vietnam, at least the baths that we have had in our hotel’s do not have a proper drainage system. While the bath has a plug hole like every other bath, there is no pipe which brings the water outside to drain – instead the water goes down the plug hole, out under the bath, onto the floor and circles around a drain made in the bathroom floor. Big deal you might say, however, it meant that the first bath I had in HCMC was a slight fiasco. After a quick soak, I pulled out the plug, unaware of the torrent of water that would come whooshing out onto the floor. Amide the swirling flood, I frantically tried to keep the water from entering the bedroom until the entire bath had drained around my feet. Note to self - in future gradually let the bath water drain by holding the plug slightly over the drain for long enough that the whole bath empties... OR just have a feckin' shower!

Is it hot in here?

Women in Vietnam seem completely unaffected by the heat on a day-to-day basis, as they drive around fully covered in hoodies, jackets, even wearing gloves in 40 degree heat. However, their appearance has nothing to do with their temperature, they are in fact very susceptible to the heat and can be regularly spotted perspiring and panting in the sun. Rather, they are acutely aware of their skin colour (and that of every western it seems). They wish to be white. Whiteness symbolises youth and beauty.

Two Child Average

Vietnamese families are technically allowed to have as many children as they want. However, each child born after the second child incurs a significant tax. Therefore, families try to have just two children. A Vietnamese friend of ours told us that most families wish for one boy and one girl in their first two children so that they will not have to pay the child tax. Twins are considered very bad luck, particularly if one already has a child!

To keep their skin from tanning, they cover every inch when they are out and about. One woman told me that her husband gets angry with her if he sees that she is not covered because her skin will get brown and old looking. She told me that the sun gives her lines on her face and freckles on her skin which is a sign of age instead of beauty. The most wealthy Vietnamese women have very pale complexions and walk around under umbrellas whenever they step outside.

Play Street

On Friday nights one street in Hanoi is closed to traffic and turned into ‘Play Street’. Numerous hand made toys and amusements are placed along the street such as see-saws, ramps for skateboards and rocking horses. Children are invited to come and play while parents stand aside taking photos. When we passed by this street almost every toy was being used. Particularly popular were the bales of hay, being thrown around! It’s a really nice idea which doesn’t cost a lot and I’m sure children will grow up to have great memories of play street.

One Thing at a Time

While I don’t mean to be critical, as I know that Vietnamese people work very hard, the service throughout Vietnam is incredibly slow. Generally one task is completed at a time, no more! For example, we have been in restaurants where we give our order together but we can see the chef prepare one dish from start to finish, send it out and then start the second. For us, this means always eating at different times, extended meal times and sometimes the random ordering of meals. I have eaten my main course before my starter and my side before my main course. Adjust your expectations and there should be no problem.

Ramps

Every Vietnamese home has a ramp as well as steps fitted at its main entrance. Houses, shops, restaurants, even building sites all have an essential ramp. The steps are for people and the ramp is for the families moto. Those who have precious motos like to keep them safe and in the shade, thus parking them in their house for the night.

Marriage

Arranged marriages are not traditional in Vietnam (although they do sometimes happen). Instead, at the age of between 19 and 23, a girl finds a partner who is slightly older than her whom she is most likely to marry. After the couple court and marry, the wife must move in with her in-laws and live communally with them. She must work their land and contribute to their household until they decide that the couple are ready to become independent. It is not until a couple are awarded independence from the husbands parents that they are allowed to earn their own money and begin to plan a future together...Dose!

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Female Guerilla Fighters

6/11/2015

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Stop Five, Hanoi 25/04/2015 to 31/05/2015
(Written by Her)

Among other things, the women’s museum presents the history of female participation in the war. Women were soldiers, generals, fired weapons, made traps and ammunition. In fact, 40% of the militia self defense were women. They worked digging trenches and delivering babies. They tended to the sick and wounded. Vietnamese women played a vital role in the war, as I’m sure women have all over the world. The difference in this country is that they have been honoured, praised and memorialized for the contribution and sacrifices they made during the countries tumultuous past. Women had a voice, they were given leadership roles, they were respected and now they are commemorated and immortalized in the museums of Hanoi and Saigon, awarded medals of bravery and became the subject of many propaganda posters representing bravery. Here are some of their stories;

Nguyen Thi Kin Lai

Nguyen Thi Kin Lai is pictured here with a captured American pilot named William Andrew Robinson, who’s plane was shot from the sky in 1965. She was a female guerrilla aged just 17 years old. Robinson was just 23. The picture was exhibited on billboards and stamps around the country. At just 17, Thi Kin Lai became a symbol of the courage and heroic nobility of Vietnamese women. Surprisingly, this story had a happy ending, the two met again in 1995 when Thi Kin Lai was 45 with 3 children working at a hospital and Robinson, 51, a mechanic was visiting old combat zones.

Nguyen Thi Dung

Thi Dung was a young female prisoner. During her time in prison she was given only enough water to keep her alive. She had no means of washing for 3 months at a time and had no way to wash or dry her clothes. In order to wash her body, she covered herself in nylon material to make her sweat and she wiped herself with a wet cloth. She washed her clothes in urine and cut and braided her hair to make a clothes line for them to dry. Like other women, Thi was subjected to torture. Women were kept in tiger cages. They were cannibalized. They were fed medicine to paralyze them. They were shackled to the floor. War can be guaranteed to bring out the worst in people.

Female Guerrilla fighters

When heavy rain fell and flooded the root to the hospital, female soldiers lept to action. They waded through the flood water to form an orderly line. They then placed heavy boards across their shoulders and formed a human bridge. The stood with water reaching their necks until all the wounded were safely carried to the hospital.

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Who is Ho Chi Minh?

6/1/2015

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Stop Five, Hanoi 25/04/2015 - 31/05/2015
(Written by Him)

If you have been to Vietnam, taken an interest in the American war, read some of our blogs and glanced at our pictures you will no doubt have heard the name, or seen the face. But who is this mysterious Ho Chi Minh (HCM)? Born on 19 May 1890 in the countryside of North Central Vietnam, HCM would grow up to become the first President of a newly formed Democratic Republic of Vietnam and is credited with leading the country to independence, defeating both the French and the Americans. If even half of what is told about this man is true he was an immense character who profoundly altered the course of history. He remains the most important icon of the Vietnamese people today.

Intelligent and ambitious he studied in the French schools of Hue established by the colonies before he was expelled for taking part in a protest against agricultural taxes. In 1911 he took a kitchen job aboard a French steamer bound for Marseille. From France he travelled to America where he worked in New York for 2 years as a baker. There he made contact with Korean nationalists and began forming his political ideologies. HCM travelled back to Europe and lived in London where he worked as a pastry chef. By 1919 he had moved again to France under a false name and began taking a more pro-active interest in politics, joining a group of Vietnamese Nationalists in Paris and the Communist Party of France.

He attended various protests here lobbying for Vietnamese independence from France. HCM again moved in 1923 this time to Moscow where he secured work as a teacher before moving to Southern China in 1924. Here, just across the border from Vietnam he began giving communist lectures to groups of young Vietnamese revolutionaries. These youths would in-turn be the seeds of the movement to a new independent, communist Vietnam. By 1945 HCM had leveraged various agreements with the WWII Allied forces, together with achieving a domestic revolution led by his Viet Minh communist party. He would become Prime Minister of Vietnam by September of that year. HCM's first order of business was to promulgate the Declaration of Independence among the people. He would go on to oversee with General Vo Nguyen Giap the final defeat and exit of the French in 1954 and the defeat of the Americans in the 1970's. HCM died in 1969 aged 79 and his body is embalmed and on display in a heavily guarded Mausoleum in Hanoi adjacent to his preserved living quarters and a large, lotus-leaf-shaped museum dedicated to his life & works.

There are many conflicting reports about Uncle Ho and his legacy has become a primary tool of propaganda for the Vietnamese Government. There is eye-witness evidence that his government was responsible for the deaths of up to 500,000 North Vietnamese during a land reform programme post Independence. The Vietnamese government has also banned any publication regarding HCM's non-celibacy as they maintain he never had a romantic relationship and was married to the cause. However there is evidence he married a Chinese woman, 10 years his junior before returning to Vietnam as well as various other liaisons. His face appears on all Vietnamese currency and the former Capital of Southern Vietnam, Saigon was renamed Ho Chi Minh city in his honour. It is said that any author who publicises anything criticising or altering the details of HCM's carefully sculpted reputation is liable to imprisonment and so you will not read this until we have left Vietnam.

We made two attempts to visit the HCM complex in Hanoi. Admittedly without much forethought we decided it would be a great idea to visit on his would be Birthday (May 19) which is a national holiday. We quickly realised how wrong we were when we arrived to throngs of Vietnamese who had made the long trip from the countryside to view the great leader on this special day.

The heat was cruel and the queues endless. After copious security checks, and a feisty altercation between herself and a burly male usher with no English (the language barrier being well and truly vaulted with vigorous hand gestures & aggressive pointing) we exited the long line of entrants to wander around one pillar pagoda, traditionally the last sight on the HCM circuit.

We were lucky to see some elderly Vietnamese visitors dressed traditionally in light blue gowns and yellow hats (looking a little like retired ninjas it must be said) who apparently appear only on his birthday. Sweat drenched with our clothes matting themselves to our bodies we posed for photos with Vietnamese families in town for the occasion. It was obvious the heat and stifling masses would be the end of us and soon so with our pruning fingers we flagged a taxi and headed back to the cooler environs of the city centre. HCM had defeated the Westerners once more.

Two days later and several degrees cooler our confidence returned and we made another attempt for the summit. Second time round we managed to view everything on the HCM route in relative comfort. The mausoleum is treated with the utmost respect. Young presidential guards dressed in brilliant white line the length of the 400m walk from security HQ to the building itself. As you climb the large steps to enter this massive granite crypt visitors are quickly scolded, no cameras, no talking, no hats, no glasses, hands out of pockets and lines two by two. We enter the building Noah's ark style, eventually reaching the large, cold and darkened room containing the body.

Ho’s remains lie in a large glass coffin atop a raised stone plinth with only hands and face visible above a blanket, lit by small spot lights. The body itself is guarded by four young men, one to each corner of the coffin, standing to rigid attention. The visitors fenced walkway snakes along the wall of the room about 2 metres from the foot of the coffin at its closest point. Visitors are briskly waved along and the pace noticeably quickens as , until we re-emerge into the warmth outside. It is anti-climactic but visitors to Vietnam should make the effort given HCM's importance to the host country and to twentieth century history in general.

We walked on to the Presidential house and grounds where HCM lived for the latter part of his life. The French style, grand Presidential palace is closed to visitors but this is no significant loss as HCM refused to live in this splendor while his countrymen were still so poor. He instead turned his affections to the gardner's quarters, a small two room stilt house overlooking a small lake and park. He lived, wrote and read in this simple wooden building, maintained the garden, fed the lake's carp and received visiting dignitaries and government colleagues in two stone buildings adjacent. The entire site has the potential to be a somber and poignant reminder but as it turns out this depends on who takes the tour with you.

We were unofficially accompanied around the museum and gardens by bands of roaming pre-school toddlers. Think of lemmings with sun hats.They were hilarious and certainly distracted the majority of visitors and guards alike. Bumper-car like they would cluster briefly under teacher's instruction before shooting off in different directions, some heading for the lakes edge, others the out-of-bounds grass areas, some carelessly peeing in the grass (while guards shouted and pointed), some simply falling over, and so on. When in transit one child would hold on to the tee-shirt of the next and so on before someone in the middle would get distracted again, wandering out of line, cuing the rest to also break rank. We finished the day with as many photos of these adorable tykes as we did of the sights but it was certainly neither a waste of a day nor film.