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Travelling Solo - As A Couple...

7/29/2015

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Stop Thirteen, Solo, Java, Indonesia – 6/07/2015 to 8/07/2015
(Written by Her)
After visiting Prambanan temple complex, our taxi driver dropped us to Solo (aka Surakarta), famed for being the least Westernised city in Java. We planned to stay in Solo for two nights and hire a driver to explore the city and surrounding areas. Hiring drivers is significantly more expensive in Java compared with Bali. There seems to be a bit of a cartel going as each driver has a set printout of prices to nearby tourist sites and cities. 
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No taxi driver will use a meter if you want to visit a tourist attraction – instead, you are offered the set price which is significantly more! It cost us almost 2 million rupiah on three days of driving. 
Fawlty Towers left Torquay!
Our hotel in Solo was mid-range but as it was low season it was almost empty. Once we checked in, the Fawlty Towers comedy routine began! The hotel boast 24hr room service but the phone receiver in our room was broken so we could never order. Breakfast was advertised as 6am to 10am but actually started at 5am. We booked the hotel driver with reception one evening but he never showed the next morning and according to reception they don’t have any hotel drivers. We were asked to pay a deposit upon check-in for room service but weren’t allowed to charge anything to the room. They told us they had a heated swimming pool which wasn’t heated. We ordered fish and chips from the bar which came out as just fish (they didn’t realize that fish n' chips includes french fries!). We ordered drinks one day from a ‘barman’ who disappeared for 40 minutes and came back with the wrong order. From start to finish the place was hilariously head wrecking. 
Javanese Tea Plantation
On our first day of sightseeing in Solo we asked our driver to bring us up the slopes of mount Lawu (10,712ft) to the Kemuning Tea Plantation. I had read that visitors should arrive between 6am and 8am in order to see the tea picking process so we left the hotel at 5:30am. The tea plantation is located a little more than half way up the slopes of the fertile dormant volcano. Mount Lawu has only one eruption on record (1885) but earthquakes are common in the area. 
We drove up and up narrow winding roads until we started to see green rolling hills of tea. Tea planted everywhere, as far as the eye could see. Miles and miles of tea trees. Our driver dropped us at the top of the mountain where we could get the best views of the plantation stretching across the valley. He encouraged us to climb up the slopes and into the tea trees where we would find pickers, and we did. After a few minutes of climbing we came across dozens of female tea pickers scaling the slopes for the best leaves. 
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The women were aged anywhere between 30 and 65 and walked for miles up and down the slopes picking. We walked amongst them, talking to them (although they had no English), and taking photos. They smiled and laughed at us, some posing very seriously for pictures but they didn’t stop their work for one second the entire time we were there. Each woman wore a pair of wellingtons to protect them from the snakes and spiders living at the base of the trees. They carried a wicker basket on their backs, picking the tea leaves by hand and filling the baskets. Once baskets were full, the contents were tipped onto a square of tarpaulin which would eventually hold ten times the amount of tea leaves. As we climbed the narrow footways through the tea trees beside the women, we spotted some baskets and bundles sitting on the ground waiting to be carried down the mountain. I tried to lift the bundle and in all honestly it nearly broke my back. It weighed about twice my 15kg backpack. The women, 50/60 were lifting these bundles from the ground to above their shoulders and placing them on their heads to carry down the slippery path. The women laughed at me as I watched in awe at the strength they had in their arms and legs. 
Kitsch as it may be - a word to anyone who drinks tea – appreciate every cup! The human effort that goes into growing and harvesting is like nothing you would ever see in Ireland. The work and the conditions are so backbreaking - picking the leaves, spraying the trees with fertilizer and weed killer (we saw some young girls doing this), then carrying the leaves down the slopes in 20kg+ bundles, driving them from the side of a volcano down a narrow road to a local village where the tea leaves are dried, shrinking to a quarter of their size before being sold for little or nothing. We went to a tiny house in the village close to the plantation and bought 3 packets of tea costing just $0.80 in total. The owners were chuffed that we had stopped to buy locally but we felt like we felt guilty for basically robbing them. The next time I buy tea it will be Fair Trade and I won't be leaving half cups all over the house (the bain of his life apparently!). 
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Candi Sukuh, Almost...
After Kemuning we drove down the volcano a little to visit Candi Sukuh (Candi meaning temple), a temple that looks more like an Inca ruin than a Hindu temple. Unfortunately, when we arrived the entire temple was under construction – bamboo scaffolding surrounded the temple and visitors couldn’t see anything at all (of course they still tried to sell us a ticket – that was a laugh). 
On our way out we bumped into a couple of Spanish girls who had walked 20km up the mountain to get to the temple – you can imagine their disappointment. They had no map and no idea what else was in the area to see and clearly no means of transport so we offered them a lift to the next attraction – Jumog waterfall. It turns out they were hitching around Java – it had taken them 6 days to get from Jakarta to Yogyakarta and now they had made their way to Solo, brave ladies. 
Jumog Waterfall
When we arrived at Jumog, the girls paid our 10k rupiah entry fee as a thank you and we explored the waterfall together. Like in Bali (GitGit waterfall), we walked down steps and footpaths from the road above to the bottom of the valley beneath the waterfall. However, this time the waterfall was amazing and completely worth the effort. The speed at which the water was flowing down the 30ft drop meant the spray soaked anyone within a 20ft radius. We climbed as close as possible, clothes & hair completely soaked taking photos and laughing at each other. Feeling totally refreshed by the hazy waterfall in the sticky Javanese weather, we even waded into the cold water of the river. Other than some tiny crabs and a few fish we had the waterfall completely to ourselves. 
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Solo Kraton
After our jaunt around mount Lawu, we headed back to Solo to see their Kraton. It was much quieter than Jogja’s Palace and a larger proportion was cordoned off for the Royal family. We walked around the large gravel courtyard taking pictures of the blue wooden structures, remnants of the city’s Dutch colonial past. Outside Becak drivers lay sleeping in their carriages, Andong horses ate their midday snack from a hanging bucket and vendors sold street food from portable wooden food stalls. Walking around the city, we felt that Solo was certainly upholding its authentic cultural history and staunchly resisting western influence. 
Ketep Pass
The Sunda Arc is a volcanic arc which forms the spine of Java and Sumatra. When flying into Yogyakarta, the three volcanoes which form the spine of central Java were visible from the plane (see photos). The Sunda arc marks the boundary between the East Eurasian and Australian tectonic plates. The arc houses some of the most dangerous and most active volcanoes in the world with an average eruption rate of once every 4-5 years. Fun fact: the loudest noise ever recorded in history resulted from an eruption of Krakatoa in the 1880s, the eruption was heard 5,000kms away. 
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The map above highlights two of the volcanos we visited - Mount Lawu and Mount Merapi, we also visited mount Merbabu. In Solo, we searched long and hard for a driver to take us from to Ketep Pass and on to Borobudur. Ketep Pass is located between two of the most active volcanos in Java – Mount Merapi and Mount Merbabu. Mount Merapi (translation ‘mountain of fire’ in Javanese), is an active volcano which has erupted regularly since 1548. In November 2010, Merapi erupted violently killing 30 people and displacing 100,000. After the eruption, a visitors centre was built at Ketep Pass to remind people of the devastation and to educate people about Volcanology. 
The pass is located about 4,000ft above sea level and take some seriously skillful driving to reach the visitor centre. Sitting in the back of the taxi we drove up and over the mountains. In all honesty, we probably needed a four wheel drive for safety. Our driver really struggled at times. When we started nearing the top of the mountain the roads became very steep and had just a dirt surface in places. Dust and sand billowed from the trucks driving ahead of us almost entirely obscuring our view.
A sheer drop bordered the road at one side and there were road works meaning traffic was redirected to the very edge of the road. At one point we turned a corner and were faced with a really steep incline causing the car to skid and roll backwards. The driver looking panicked pulled up the hand break while trucks began to overtake us. 
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The only way to get up the hill was to turn the wheel directly towards the cliff edge and put his foot down, hoping that (a) the wheels would catch and we’d make it up the hill and (b) he would be quick enough to turn the wheels away from the edge before we went over! I must admit we were all holding our breaths. Thankfully he did it, we were so relieved we actually gave him a clap. Talk about hairy moments!
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It took us three hours to get from Solo to Ketep Pass even though the distance is just 60km - giving you some idea of the road conditions! The visitor centre was empty, the receptionist said it’s always very quiet up there. I’m guessing it’s too difficult to reach for the average tourist. However, when we said we were from Ireland, the guy at the ticket booth started shouting 'Oh Robbie Keane', 'Roy Keane'....'Yes, yes, Irlandia'. 
The visitor centre has a viewing platform where you can see Mount Merapi as clear as day. You are so high that the clouds surround you. Mount Merapi erupted in 2010 causing devastation to the land and villages surrounding. We watched a short film in the onsite theatre which detailed the tragedy showing smoke, ash, lava billowing from the mountain causing bridges to collapse, animals to be suffocated and lives to be lost. Still to this day 100,000+ people live in the 'forbidden-zone', approx. 10km from the summit. 
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Imagine, here are all these people whom we see everyday, our driver, our receptionist, the lady in the shop who always has a smile for us. These people must have been terrified when the volcano exploded. Ash being sent miles into the air and covering houses, land, faces. People fleeing their homes with just a handful of priceless belongings. Then imagine that these people, who had so little to begin with, rebuilt their lives, homes, schools, farms in just five short years. It shows incredible resilience and something the Javanese should be proud of. Eerily, at the same time as we were standing looking at Mount Merapi in Central Java, a volcano in the East of Java erupted, grounding all flights between Java and Bali. We missed it by just days. 
All this talk of Volcanoes...
I couldn’t help but wonder what I would do if I witnessed an eruption. Or if there was an earthquake. On the back of every hotel booklet there are special printed instructions in the case of an earthquake – in particular the triangle of life. Apparently if you are in your hotel room during an earthquake and you can’t get to an open space outdoors, the best advice is to crouch beside a large piece of furniture or lie down at the base of your bed to prevent loose debris falling on you. One night in Solo, I was convinced there would be an earthquake. Luckily it was not a sixth sense and we slept soundly for our entire stay. 
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Central Java
On our jaunt around Central Java we really enjoyed the scenery. Like Bali, there was rice harvesting and rice terraces a plenty. The fertile volcanic soil means a lot of people work the land. We also found ourselves trekking in a small hilly village with shelters made from sheets of zinc and a small farmyard with a cow, cat and goat - himself befriended the cow! We took some nice photos - check them out. Next stop Borobudur!
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Java - Where's that again?

7/28/2015

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Stop Twelve, Yogyakarta, Java, Indonesia  - 2/07/2015 to 6/07/2015 & 9/07/2015 to 14/07/2015
(Written by Her)
A Concise History!
Java is the 13th largest island in the world and the most densely populated island on the planet crammed with 143 million residents! Java has a long and colourful history, starting with its Hindu and Buddhist kingdoms from the 8th to the 15th century (leaving a legacy of temples including Prambanan and Borobudur, more on these coming up). In the 16th century Islam swept the island and remains the dominant religion in Java to this day. In the 18th Century, Java was invaded by the Dutch who colonised the island and are responsible for much of the architectural heritage in Yogyakarta. In the 19th century Java briefly came under British rule during which time the renowned Sir Stamford Raffles (founder of Singapore) was appointed Governor before the country was returned to the Dutch. In 1998, Java became independent of the Dutch and subsequently joined the country of Indonesia (although we're not entirely convinced that they wanted to). 
Yogyakarta
Yogyakarta, or JogJa for short is a vibrant, happening place with a population the size of Ireland the city has the second highest population density on the Island. Once the capital of the Indonesian Republic for a short 4 year revolution, Jogja is now considered the centre of education and culture in Java. No surprise, we headed here first! Java is very different from other countries in S.E. Asia, it has a bit of an edge about it. It’s not necessarily that the city is unsafe but it is covered in graffiti and the people are less "groomed" than other cities. I think Java's edge is its charm, its what makes Jogja an interesting city to walk around. Overall we spent a fantastic 8 days in Jogja which was plenty of time to soak up the local scene.
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Maliboro Street
Jalan Maliboro (not named after the cigarettes) is the main drag. Stretching for 2km we walked the entire thing on more than one occasion. Maliboro is the best place to shop and to people watch and is the centre of life in Jogja. It’s an easy street to stroll along because you really don’t get hassled in Jogja, no one seems to care if you want to buy their wares or not. It was a stark and refreshing change from Bali! JL. Maliboro is lined with colourful Dutch colonial buildings and filled with funky street sculptures. 
On Mailboro street, Javanese becaks (human powered 2 person cyclos) park one behind the other at both sides of the street, calling lazily to each potential customer walking by 'becak Sir?' Accompanying them are lines of Andongs (traditional horse and carts), today only to be found in Yogyakarta and Solo. Both becaks and andongs are dying out as a means of regular transport but are still used by tourists. We of course tried both forms of transport but naturally neither can be used for any great distance so we found it easier to walk (even in 36C heat). 
The Royal Palace
The Kraton, Jogja’s Royal Palace, is at the centre of Jogja city and still houses the King and his family. A Small portion of the Kraton is open to the public and advertised as Jogja’s main tourist attraction, so we obliged. There wasn’t much to see if I’m being honest. The interior of the Kraton had a series of courtyards, each with some small exhibits. There is also a lack of information for visitors, consciously so according to some royal cynics. 
Taman Sari
Beside the Kraton is Taman Sari, home to the bathing pools of the 18th century King. The water baths have been rebuilt for visitors and they really are lovely to walk around. We were assigned a free guide (as is customary with the main city sites) upon entering and he was excellent. The two central pools in Taman Sari were for the wives and children of the King. Overlooking the pools was a tall tower from which the King could observe the activity below and choose a mate to ‘honeymoon’ with. The chosen wife would be handed a flower and led to the Kings private pool. Apparently, some Kings had up to 47 wives and quite a few more children! 
Javanese Food
Restaurants in Jogja are not plentiful, even on Jn Maliboro. The norm is to book a taxi to take you to a specific restaurant and afterwards the restaurant will call the taxi back to drop you home. It was a new system for us but we soon started seeking out restaurant recommendations and travelling up to 25 minutes to eat in the evenings. Interestingly, the taxi regulations have also adapted to this system by introducing a minimum fare per trip to make sure they are properly compensated for dropping passengers around the city. Street food is also well represented in Jogja. Outside our hotel there was plenty of satay, BBQ pork and coconut rice to try. The hygiene standards, although they sometimes looked questionable, were certainly higher than other places we’ve visited (i.e. parts of Vietnam and Cambodia). 
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Sonobudoyo Museum
Jogja’s best museum, Sonobudoyo, houses Hindu, Buddhist and Islamic artifacts from history. On our visit, we were met by an enthusiastic young girl working for the museum and offered to be our guide. Sensing her boredom with the empty museum we were happy to accept. Without her, the museum would have been quite dry, she made the visit much more enjoyable. She answered our many questions about Java and let us in on some local secrets. 
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In particular she spoke to us about the limitations placed on her by Islam. She herself is a muslim but she choses not to wear a hijab – claiming that her relationship with God is a private one and not the business of everyone else. However, due to her personal decisions she was bullied at school and judged negatively by older generations. She suggested that there is an assumption that girls who wear hijabs are good and virtuous but that’s not always the case. Instead, it's like a mask, hiding someone’s ugly behaviour. Because she works for the city of Jogja (in the museum), she has to wear long sleeves and skirts below the knee. She said it's difficult because she can’t dress how she likes. Furthermore, the Islamic rules mean that traditional Javanese costumes (such as wedding dresses) can no longer be worn by the younger generations because girls cannot show their shoulders. 
In Java, a man must have five things to demonstrate his success; a house, a wife, money, a form of transport even if it’s a bicycle and a bird. As a result, pet birds are incredibly common in Java. We spotted numerous locals carrying their birds around in cages, hanging them outside their shops or sitting them on the back of motorbikes as they drive around the city. The sound of birds singing is supposed to sooth and calm any household, therefore eradicating tension and negativity…I wonder if turtles do the same??
Ramayana Ballet
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The story of Ramayana from the Hindu Mahabharata is hugely important in Java. It’s essentially a love story complete with deities, Kings and magic dating from 500 AD. In fact, Yogyakarta is named after a city in the Ramayana. One of the most popular tourist attractions in Central Java is the Ramayana Ballet. Our hotel was next door to the best outdoor amphitheater hosting the ballet so of course we bought tickets for an evening performance. 
About 50 people from countries all over the world were seated with us in the sheltered amphitheater. The dance was not a ballet in the western sense, without a plié or jump in sight. Instead, the cast were dressed in elaborate costumes and moved very slowly with precise movements. The performance was accompanied by a live Gamelan orchestra and lasted just under 2 hours. Overall a great night out – check out the short video. 
Shopping in Yogyakarta
After a jaunt around the rest of Java we arrived back in Jogja less than a week after visiting Prambanan. Our final days were dedicated to shopping and relaxing! Jogja has really cheap and unusual souvenirs for those who are willing to search through cheap key rings and magnets to find the hidden gems. In fact, Batik in Java was designated as a UNESCO masterpiece of human heritage so it is no surprise that Batik is found everywhere in Yogyakarta, genuine and not so genuine. It's made using wax which is carefully applied to fabric in traditional and artistic patterns before the material is dyed. We picked up a couple of pieces avoiding the scammers...hopefully?! 
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Prambanan Temple Complex
After a few days in Jogja, we hired a taxi to take us to Prambanan, a world famous Hindu temple dedicated to the God Shiva. Taxi’s in Jogja are not quite the same as Bali, the cars are less sophisticated, the drivers don’t have a word of English and air-conditioning is non-existent. As we drove along the motorway to Prambanan I opened my window a little to get some air. All I was generating was a warm breeze which carried exhaust fumes from the voluminous traffic outside. The air in Java is noticeably polluted, particularly on roads filled with trucks and beat up old buses emitting clouds of black exhaust fumes. Luckily the drive was just under an hour and we arrived at Prambanan thankful to get out of the car, right up until we were faced with an extortionate entrance fee of 450k rupiah (€30.00). 
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The site at Prambanan is a UNESCO world heritage site and one of the largest temple complexes in S.E. Asia hosting one main temple (shiva) and a host of smaller temples dotted around a one acre site. Originally there were 240 separate temples standing in Prambanan. Unfortunately, Yogyakarta was struck by a 6.3 magnitude earthquake in 2006 which killed almost 6,000 people and destroyed the majority of the Prambanan site. The government are making an effort to rebuild the knocked temples but it will take years to correctly replace the hundreds of blocks that fell. The remnants of cracked and fallen stones lie in piles untouched on the site surrounding the remaining temples – some are visible in our photos. 
The Shiva temple is the largest and most holy structure in the complex, standing 47 metres high. Adorning the walls outside the Shiva temple are carvings depicting the story of Ramayana (yes, the same as the ballet). Inside the temple is a shrine housing a three metre high Shiva statue. Himself scaled the largest Shiva temple and took some pictures of the inner chamber. I climbed the steps of the smaller sister temple, Candi Nandi and walked around the gallery with great views of Shiva temple and the courtyard complex. 
Before we left Prambanan we were greeted by an eager salesman with copies of a book about the temple complex. Initially we had no intention of buying but he was a nice guy so we bought a copy. He insisted on taking some photos of the two of us together, taking my camera and positioning himself ever so carefully to get the right angle!! Once the pictures were taken he bounded up to us, chuffed as you like and wanted us to review his handy work. Lovely guy. Next stop Solo...
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To Fear or Not to Fear...Flying in S.E. Asia

7/27/2015

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Written by Her
Before we start discussing the wonderful sights, people and foods of the latest country I have a few short words on flying in S.E. Asia. For those of you who know me, you are probably aware that I am not the biggest fan of planes (or cars or buses for that matter). I don’t like taking off, I don’t like landing and I don’t like turbulence. In fact, it is true that I can’t sit on a plane for more than 5 minutes without thinking about 9/11, Malaysian flight 370 or the movie final destination! Prior to our departure I was aware that I would have to face my flying phobias on a fairly regular basis but was dedicated enough to seeing the world that I refused to let it stop me. 
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At this point in the journey (4 months in) we have taken 15 flights. As we were in Vietnam for 2 months, the majority of flights have been in the last 2 months. Dealing with my flying issues has been harder than I thought it would be, particularly due to the unique experiences we have been having in Asian airspace. 
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In the last two months we have experienced some of the worst take offs, turbulence and landings of my life. Just last night when we landed in Singapore the pilot did not approach the runway absolutely straight and the plane almost toppled to one side (even himself got a fright). In Java, we were delayed in the air because of traffic at the airport meaning the landing ordeal was dragged out for over an hour (including going down and back up again a few times for fun). We have had turbulence that caused the air hostesses to run to their seats and buckle up. 
We have taken off so vertically that other passengers audibly gasped, and we landed so badly in HCMC that the guy in the seat beside me blessed himself. Overall - not the best flying experiences. 
Add to those experiences the fact that Malaysia Borneo and Brunei are largely Islamic countries. So what you might ask? Well, while it doesn’t bother me at all that the people around me are dressed in hijabs. These people are families, students, nervous flyers like me. What gets me every time is the prayer before travelling. On numerous occasions, most recently as we were taxi-ing the runway on a Brunei airlines jet, TV screens dropped from the overhead, a picture of clouds with Arabic writing came on the screens and the voice of a man chanting the prayer before travelling was broadcast around the cabin.
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 I ask you, is it ever a good idea, directly before catapulting your body 34,000 feet into the air to start praying that bad things won't happen. Most certainly, it draws attention to the many things that might go wrong including - crashing into another plane, falling from the sky, bursting into flames or plummeting to the bottom of the ocean (yes these are the things that go through my mind- irrational I know). For me, praying is not the greatest distraction nor is it very comforting.
All of these factors taken into consideration, flying around S.E. Asia has been one of the biggest challenges of this trip for me. I definitely take after my grandfather because, no matter how distracted I am, my stomach starts to get sick exactly 12 hours before I fly (we have a sensitive constitution us Brennans!). Nevertheless, I have made it this far and with only a handful of flights left I am starting to relax...kind of! 
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Two Weeks in Paradise? Bali, Part II

7/19/2015

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Stop Eleven, Bali - 18/06/2015 to 2/07/2015
(Written by Her)
After months of adventure our bodies were feeling a little tired and weary. We tend to build in rest days so that we can catch up on writing, uploading pics and resting the legs! Day 8 in Ubud was a designated 'rest' day. With work due, it was time to catch up on the mundane tasks like washing!! Rising early, I got stuck into work but booked an appointment in a spa as an afternoon treat. 

Spa Treatments in Bali

Bali is synonymous with award winning beauty rituals. I booked a Javanese Lulur and Mani-Pedi. 3 hours in total, costing 280k rupiah (it actually cost me more because I felt sorry for my pregnant manicurist who has to work right up until her due date in order to afford hospital treatment for the birth, so I tipped her the equivalent of a days wages...but for everyone else it cost around $22). The Lulur was traditionally a ritual performed on Javanese royalty in the 9th century. It was like nothing I’ve ever experienced before and I am a bit of a spa junkie, so its worth describing (without trying to make you jealous of course). My treatment started with a 1 hour full body Balinese massage using the oil of your choice. This was followed by a full body scrub using papaya and brown sugar to rejuvenate the skin. Afterwards, natural yogurt is spread over the skin to make it silky smooth. Finally, to clean away the yogurt and get the full benefit of the treatment, I was popped into a freshly drawn flower bath. 
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Flower baths are very popular in Bali and absolutely worth a try if you have a spare hour. It is a bath of warm water (or sometimes milk), topped with a full layer of colourful and fragrant flower petals. Of course my bath wasn't complete without a nice cup of herbal tea. Overall, a fabulous afternoon, although I was brushing flower petals out of my hair for about a week afterwards!
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After my relaxing afternoon, we still needed to hit the post office, this time with a heavier box than last time (must be that stone sculpture...oops). The staff were amazing and very well used to tourists shipping Balinese arts and crafts all over the world. We rocked up with a box and a tube of paintings both of which were carefully packaged in front of us. Firstly, the boxes were sealed and taped, then wrapped in white tarpaulin that was stitched around the box and labelled in large bold print. If these don’t arrive in Ireland I will eat my hat (crosses fingers).

Pod Chocolate Factory

On our second day of rural sightseeing with Wayan, we ventured further afield into Northern Bali. Starting early, we arrived at our first destination Pod Chocolate Factory, at 9:30am. Surprisingly (given that it’s me we’re talking about), this was my first ever chocolate factory visit. What we didn't realise was Pod also has its own elephants, shipped from their native Sumatra and 2 sun-bears from Borneo (where we saw them in their natural habitat). The chocolate factory was great with huge vats of white chocolate being mixed, aerated and set when we arrived. We saw how the cocoa pods are picked, the beans dried, roasted and processed to make the chocolate I so love. Then there was a free tasting of about 20 flavours with varying cocoa percentages before I had the opportunity to make my own chocolates. It was a fun hour. I was literally like a kid in a candy shop!
Next we had a long drive to lake Bratan, 1200m above sea level Lake Bratan, in the mountains near Bedugul, is an iconic Balinese image with its over-water temple complex appearing on the 50k rupiah note. Built in 1663 the temple is still used for ceremonies celebrating the water, lake and river goddess. When we arrived we were lucky enough to witness a ceremony just finishing and got some photos before heading down to the water's edge. The temple itself was closed to the public (as usual) and again the area was filled with tourists and local touts. 
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Lake Bratan, Northern Bali

We rented a peddle-boat in an attempt to get away from the hoards. To our dismay (but not surprise) the raft's steering and front peddle didn't work at all. After 15 ridiculous minutes of floating and going backwards in circles we finally got the thing back to shore and vowed never to get on another one. As we walked around the gardens surrounding the lake and temple we found a small deer enclosure, some weird looking statues, a petting zoo and an animal photo-booth. For us, it felt like the locals don't think the temple was enough and the extras were a must to keep the tourists coming. To be fair, we were pretty chuffed to see the largest bats in the world even if they are from Australia. Unfortunately we couldn't take a photo (there was a charge for that) but we did see them!

GitGit Waterfall, Northern Bali

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Hoping back in the car, we drove even further North. The roads in Bali scale volcanoes and as such are the windiest and hilliest we have ever seen (and that’s saying something because we’ve driven the Conor Pass on more than one occasion). Going over the slopes and through villages, we drove along cliff edges and down steep valleys. Our driver was excellent but I still got very nauseous. We arrived at GitGit waterfall near Lovina at 3pm. Telling our driver we wouldn't be long as we didn't want to swim. He must have been laughing hard to himself as we headed off on what we thought would be a quick pit stop. GitGit is the most famous waterfall in Bali, located just 70km from Denpasar, but given the road quality, about 3 1/2 hours drive. The waterfall itself is 60 meters high and is surrounded by tropical rain forest. 
Looking at this pic, I still can't believe I crossed that footbridge...Fear of Heights being Conquered?!?
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Like everything else in Bali, to get to the waterfall was a serious trek! Tourists follow a winding path down into the river valley below. There are uneven steps, many of which have no handrails and a drop of hundreds of feet down one side. If you are afraid of heights (like me), it will be a challenge. We rejected the offer of a guide for 200k rupiah and set off alone as usual!  Along the path we were met by little children selling bracelets and beads. One of them was so cute we couldn't resist stopping and buying something small. I ended up buying something off two more small children just so they wouldn't feel left out. They ran off delighted, to tell their mother, who shouted thank you after us. I was chuffed that I had made their day! 
There were also older children selling bracelets as well, however they really annoyed us with their obviously put on "please buy something, we need books for school" routine. We decided to ask them where they learned their English, ‘in school’ they said. Oh, so you have books already? we suggested. They looked at each other, giggled and walked off! Nice try ladies! One girl, about the age of 13, later even pretended (very obviously) to cry at us when we refused. Anyway, past all the sellers, down 150 steps, over 10 narrow walkways and one flimsy looking bridge (situated directly over the gushing waterfall), we arrived. While the waterfall was lovely, to be honest after putting in so much effort to get there you want spectacular! By the time we trekked all the way back up steep valley wall, we were exhausted. 
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Although the scenery was amazing, on the way home I again was feeling nauseous from the windy roads, Wayan offered me some local medicine. He said he too feels sick when driving up North so he always brings a bottle of this stuff. You rub it on the back of your neck, behind your ears, on your chest and on your stomach. I gingerly rubbed some on myself, wondering what the stuff actual was. Clearly not having put on enough by myself he decided to douse me in the ‘medicine’ saying "you must put more, more". After a few minutes sitting back in the car, my neck started to burn (or freeze, I wasn't sure). The ‘medicine’ was some form of Vicks. Strong fumes filled the car, my eyes began to water until I actually couldn't open them. I was looking at Cian, laughing but not able to tell him what was going on. It certainly distracted from the nausea until I made it home!

A word about the Gili Islands

Before leaving Ireland, we had planned to visit the Gili Islands (off the coast of Lombok) before getting the ferry to Java. In fact, I was supposed to finish my PADI course in the Gili’s and go diving. The most direct route to Gili Trawangan is by fast boat from Bali, taking a couple of hours and costing about $75 return pp. However, before booking the boat I decided to read up on the route and safety standards. As it turns out, crossing the Lombok strait (from Bali to Gili T) is one of the more risky journeys in Indonesia.  The Lombok strait is a narrow channel which separates Bali, Java and Sumatra from Lombok and Eastern Indonesian islands. It is also the point at which the Indian and Pacific Oceans meet. It is extremely deep, at 250m, which creates strong undercurrents. 
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It is also along the Wallace Line for any of you who are interested in the origins of flora and fauna. Naturalist, Alfred Russel Wallace, drew a boundary line between what he found to be two ecozones in Asia. According to Wallace, different flora and fauna could be found at either side of the line suggesting that fauna did not cross the line. Naturalists believe that it was the hazardous conditions of the Lombok Strait that kept animals from crossing thus creating a different ecosystem in Australia and Java for instance. If the animals wouldn't chance it then surely its a bad idea!? I might also mention that the Java sea and Lombok Strait were also added to the list of the most dangerous waters in terms of pirate attacks on merchant vessels in 2006 due to the lack of security personnel guarding the waters.
Furthermore, there is no regulation in terms of what vessels can take passengers (and poor unknowing tourists) across the strait. Many post-trip reviews of the journey slate the boat companies, saying the journey was one of the most dangerous, scary and sick inducing journeys they had taken. Many boats are too small for the journey. They are regularly overcrowded, with people even being asked to sit on the roof. Bags and people on deck get soaked. Windows have to be closed to keep the interior dry meaning the boats cabin fills with fumes from the engine. Many of the boats have run aground, broken down and even gone on fire. Unfortunately, there is no rescue team on standby for boats making the crossing, so if any vessel does get in trouble, help is not on the way. There are a number of people online who are trying to encourage tourists to make the trip via flight to Lombok and then public ferry to the Island but I fear that the ease of a fast boat from Bali will win over the safer option every time. Luckily, to date, no tourists have been killed making the crossing but given everything we read, we decided it wasn’t worth the risk. Plus, we had met some people who had just returned from the Gilis and mentioned that it was very crowded with tourists, further compounding our decision to stay on the island of Bali for the extra few days. 

Kuta & Legian

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Having spent 8 days in Ubud, we decided it was time to move out of our very expensive Honeymoon Guesthouse and opt for cheaper digs. The cheapest hotels on the island are located in the not so classy Kuta and Legian regions of South Bali, where night life and beach life are never ending. We made our way from Ubud to Legian and checked into the Akmani Legian Hotel (highly recommended). 
We were lucky that for our budget we found a nice hotel away from the main action with 2 swimming pools, 2 restaurants and a rooftop bar for enjoying the sunset. In other words, we didn’t have to leave the hotel unless we really wanted. Ideal for a few down days to get over the disappointment of not making it to the Gilis. 
Of course we did leave the hotel! We headed firstly to Kuta beach for a look around. The beach itself is nice, not quite the fabulous white sands of Borneo but certainly an ideal beach for anyone wanting to top up their tan. The beach stretches for miles, all the way from Jimbaran to Seminyak along Bali’s South West coast. We sat for a while watching surf lessons being given on the beach and the more experienced surfers catching waves at sea. As we sat, we were approached by numerous very thoughtful men, telling us we’ll get sunburn and offering to sell us hats!! 
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We declined and powered on, spotting the Kuta branch of Jamie Oliver’s restaurant. We love Jamie Oliver and have been to his London restaurant Fifteen so we obviously HAD to go in. Seated in the back, under the air-con, we were handed the menu. Our faces dropped. Were these prices for real. In Ubud, we had been eating well – 3 course meals with drinks for about $15, this was $15 for a main course (not including the 10% tax and 11% service charge). For two bottles of water it was going to cost the same as lunch elsewhere. We don’t make a habit of walking out of restaurants but I’m afraid that’s just what we did. Nothing could justify us spending two days food budget on a salad…sorry Jamie!
On the way back from Kuta beach we were the subject of a very popular scam in Kuta. Walking along the footpath we were stopped by a guy who had scratch cards. We kept walking but he followed us. Eventually he scratched them for us. Of course, as if by a miracle (not) I won a t-shirt which apparently included a free meal. Amazingly himself won as well, what a shocker! This time, he won an iPad, $1000 in cash, $500 off Bali activities and 1 week’s holiday in Bali. We laughed and kept walking. He was disgusted, he followed us asking us to go with him to claim our prizes. He said he had to accompany us to the hotel. Obviously we declined but insisted on keeping the scratch cards. He argued but eventually gave up and let us go. It turns out that this was a timeshare scam. If we had accompanied him to the hotel (like so many Australians had before us), we would have been subjected to a 3 hour hard sell to buy a time share apartment (which presumably doesn’t even exist). One couple said they even had to spend $77 to sign up for membership before they were allowed to leave. And what’s more, they never received their prizes!  A bit of cop on, and the internet are wonderful things. 
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Later in the evening we headed to the rooftop bar for a cocktail and an amazing view. The hotel looms up over the red tiled rooftops of surrounding houses, shops and restaurants. Luckily we found a quiet secluded spot with just 2 stools at the edge of the building looking directly towards the sea. The sunsets in Bali are among the most beautiful in the world. Photos don’t do them justice. We returned to our spot every evening to catch the last glimpse of the sun and appreciate everything that we have. 
Kuta itself is a hard place to like. The streets are soulless, filled with shops, bars and restaurants. You can’t walk 2 feet without being hassled. Even people from across the street shout at you. On our first day walking along the street at 7:30pm we were offered Hash and Prostitutes. The second day, at 12:30pm Viagra! Charming! That says it all really! We were happy to be boarding a flight bound for Yogyakarta the following day.

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The Eat Pray Love Phenomenon

7/17/2015

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Stop Eleven, Ubud, Bali (17/06/2015 to 2/07/2015)
(Written by Her)
Having walked around Ubud for the last week, it’s hard to imagine the Bali that existed in the early 2000s when Eat Pray Love was first written (published in 2006). Nevertheless, as a fan of Liz Gilbert, of course I was interested in retracing some of her footsteps in search of the authentic Balinese culture and lifestyle. 
My first mission was to track down Wayan Nuriasih. For those of you who have read the book or watched the Julia Roberts movie, you may remember a Balinese healer named Wayan, who at the time of Liz Gilbert's visit was about to become homeless. Liz befriended Wayan and her daughter Tutti when in Ubud and ended up enlisting the help of friends and family to buy Wayan a house. After a few incidents (as per the book), the house was indeed built. Wayan now runs her healing practice from the ‘Balinese Healing Center’ on Jn Jembawan in Ubud. 
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We visited her place of business, hoping to pop in for a quick chat and perhaps a remedy or reading. As we walked along the narrow street, wondering if we would ever actually find the place, we were met by a billboard with a picture of Liz Gilberts face and a list of prices for health readings….400,000 rupiah for a body reading (around $30). Wayan has certainly learned how to charge. What’s more, when we arrived she was busy with a group of three young tourists in bikinis. 
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What a contrast – the once local healer who barely earned enough to survive, striving to develop her skills, to selling overpriced readings to tourist fans of Ms Gilberts. Here I was, ready to be the next one! I reconsidered and we moved on without a reading. Perhaps that's an unfair assessment, especially since I didn't enter but it is how it seemed. Also I should say, that it is very good news that Wayan is no longer struggling as she was, and that her daughter Tutti will have a bigger, brighter future. However, it is still a shame that her skills are perhaps not being put to good use anymore and on some level, authenticity may have been replaced by fame and/or commercialism. 

As an alternative I thought perhaps I would hop in a taxi and visit Ketut Lieyer, the old Balinese healer with whom Liz had practiced meditation. My driver knew the exact Ketut but he explained that he is now very old (98 years) and is suffering from dementia so is no longer giving readings.
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While, he doesn’t see people himself, his son has taken the reins so I said no problem, maybe I’ll get to catch a glimpse of Ketut. When we arrived to Lieyer House (now the address of a large guesthouse), Ketut and his son were sitting on the terrace speaking with a woman. 
I was mesmerized, here we are in Ketut’s house, there he is sitting on his terrace as he did all those years ago before when he first met Liz. My daydreaming was interrupted by a young guy on a walkie talkie who gave me a plastic tag with the number 2 written on it. I was the second visitor of the day and the Lieyers only see 20 people per day. It was only 9:30 am. I was asked to wait at the end of the garden to be called. 
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We walked down the back of the house, past 2 eagles tied to perches, through manicured lawns, over 2 little footbridges and eventually to an infinity pool in front of a 2 storey guesthouse. Our driver explained to me that none of this was here 10 years ago. Before it was all agricultural land. After Ketut became famous, the Lieyers decided to rent more land and build a guesthouse. They are currently in the process of building villas also. After a few minutes the walkie talkie guy told our driver that Ketut and family were ready to see me. 

Once at the terrace, I was asked to remove my shoes and sit cross-legged in front of Ketut’s son (now aged 63). He gave me a short explanation as to why it was he who was giving the readings now. In short, Ketut has become senial in his old age and his mind is no longer fully functioning but his body is fit and healthy.  Ketut’s son gave me a non-descript palm reading – very successful, very happy, very wealthy, long life! I won’t hold my breath but it was a nice experience. He asked for 250,000 rupiah for the pleasure, which I was happy to pay given that it was almost half the price Wayan was charging!
It was a surreal experience to share a terrace with Ketut Lieyer and his son. To talk to his son, the way that he must have spoken with Liz. The same broken English. The same smiling, laughing voice. It was what I had imagined (minus the hotel, plastic numbers and walkie talkie guys). Ironically, Ketut’s son told me that I should come back to Bali and that he will show me how to make Hindu art. I can’t imagine ever taking his word for it and returning years later to do just that. I thanked him, secure in the knowledge that I won’t be back. As an alternative, I thought perhaps it would be nice to buy one of Ketut’s ink drawings of Hindu deities. I politely asked how much for a 20cm x 30cm black and white sketch and was told $500, as in USD. I nearly fainted. Who in their right minds is paying hundreds of dollars for one of Ketut’s paintings, good and all as they are. Commercialism rears its ugly head again. I declined and thanked him for the reading! To this day I am still talking about the price of those pictures. 
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Apart from my experiences with the actual people, who’s lives have been made part of popular culture by the EPL movie, there is a noticeable presence of female solo travellers in Bali that we haven’t seen anywhere else in SE Asia. In restaurants, around 30% of the tables are always taken up by female solo travellers. There is also an abundance of yoga classes, meditation centres, healing centres, well-being cafes and generally self-development tourism. This is pretty rare elsewhere and has to be to some extent attributed to the EPL phenomenon. 

It seems to me that the hoards of tourists descending on Ubud for a week of self-development are actually destroying any peace and balance for which the area was once known. How can one find inner peace in a yoga class with 50 other people, crammed into a small room, overlooking a busy street. Or at least, if that’s the experience in Bali, then why not stay at home? Perhaps there are people who can block out the craziness, I certainly couldn't, and while I found Ubud to be beautiful and romantic, it was undoubtedly marred by touts, scams and tourists. So I'm left asking, if one intends to write a book about a particular place, or particular people, is it better to use pseudonyms and leave the real deal well enough alone? Or is it actually more responsible to name those people who's story it really is, and give them the opportunity to boost their livelihoods and local economy, while potentially loosing some authenticity? I'm still wondering... 
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Two weeks in paradise? Bali, part 1

7/10/2015

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Stop Eleven, Bali, Indonesia - 18/6/2015 to 1/07/2015
(Written by Her)
We have been looking forward to visiting Indonesia, particularly Bali for a number of years. Boarding the plane in KL however we knew our visit was going to be very different. To begin with 90% of the people on the flight were white! There was a mix of young surfer types (some with mini guitars, whatever they're called), middle-aged solo travellers and Oz families. It felt strange to be surrounded by so many English speakers after so long. After a three hour flight, we snaked through Kuta's night-time traffic to our hotel in one of the seemingly hundreds of taxis outside the airport, the strangeness continued, tourists everywhere! Lazing by the pool when we arrived were groups of young twenty somethings smoking, drinking, possibly skinning dipping (it was dark) and generally chilling out. Not really our scene if we're honest but Kuta has been described as "the Ozzie ghetto that Australia doesn't have", so we were somewhat prepared. 
The beach holiday scene has never been for us, favouring city breaks instead, we had planned only one night in Kuta, just long enough for a Dolphin encounter. The following afternoon we were picked up at our hotel (one hour early) by our dolphin guide. He took us to Dolphin Lodge in Sanur, just outside Bali's first city, Denpasar. We waited for the Australian families to arrive before boarding our boat towards the dolphin pens just off shore. Our dolphin handler was very humorous and clearly cared about the animals. 
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Six of us waded onto a floating platform, suspended over the sea floor where we could get our hands on experience with the Dolphin, Jasmine. Jasmine was amazingly placid, friendly and inquisitive. She easily rolled over allowing us to rub her belly, she kissed us on the cheek and allowed us to hold her. It was a fantastic experience (albeit very pricey). After just under an hour in the water we said our goodbyes, glimpsing at the black tipped sharks and huge sting rays on the way back to the boat. 
The following morning we got a taxi to Krisna, the recommended budget department store in Bali for all your souvenir needs. A fraction of the prices at the markets (apparently). After an hour wandering around the jam packed shop floor trying to make sense of things himself had had enough. He said he had never been so stressed shopping, pushing past hoards of Chinese tourists to pick the right size t-shirt can get wearing. The souvenirs themselves for the most part were of questionable taste,  erotic bottle openers and beady jewellery. We drove back to our villa and decided Bali was an entirely different beast than we had expected. 

Tanah Lot

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For us, Bali was more about art, temples, and religious ceremonies rather than beach cruising and so after just one night in Kuta we headed to the cultural heartland of Bali, Ubud (pronounced ooobood) expecting green fields, a laid back pace of life and some unfiltered Balinese culture (you've seen "Eat, pray, love" right? - Like that!). We hired a taxi as is the only method of transport really, to take us from Denpasar to Ubud, stopping at Tanah Lot (one of the oldest and most beautiful temples in Bali) along the way. 

Tanah Lot was our first experience of a Balinese Hindu temple, having visited numerous mosques, buddhist temples and churches in every other country so far. Dropped at the carpark our driver reminded us he charged by the hour as we hurried to the ticket counter. You have to buy tickets before entering any of Bali's main religious or historic attractions (yet anther first).
As we turned the corner into the temple complex we were greeted, not by the temple but a tourist market selling everything from magnets and elaborate wood carvings to cold drinks. We walked and walked. Past what felt like hundreds of shops all calling to us, "just look, just look - special morning price". Finally we saw the actual gateway in the distance, thank god (or Vishnu as the case may be). We walked down the steps towards the cliff which looked like the best spot for viewing Tanah Lot but it was crowded with tourists again. I mean really crowded, people everywhere...selfie sticks swinging! There were local men offering to take photos of you and printing them on the spot with portable printers they carry in their shoulder bags, "Photo 20,000 rupiah" (of course we bought the picture below making us just as bad as everyone else!). 
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There was men with snakes for petting or a photo, women with postcards, even children selling bracelets and hair clips, everything that could possibly detract visitors from the fact that we were all here to look at this temple. Our disappointment found new depths when we were told we couldn't even enter the temple. No one mentioned this as we purchased our tickets. Temples in Bali are only open during ceremonies which occur roughly twice a year. So here we were, an hours drive & expense out of our way, surrounded by people and touts in front of a temple we couldn't get into. Very different from anything we have experienced so far.

Ubud

Still hopeful that the town of Ubud would provide the bubble of charm and tranquility we were seeking, we pressed on. But alas as we entered the town from the south we could see immediately that although not as brash as Kuta or Denpasar, Ubud still heaved with tourists. Yoga practicing bodies everywhere. Not only that but the town was comprised almost entirely of shops, restaurants and hotels with the odd art gallery hidden amongst it all. As our taxi driver dropped us off (and charged us an arm and a leg for the pleasure) he told us that there are no taxis in Ubud, not metered anyway. Yet, as we were to find out, there are more 'taxi drivers' in Ubud than anywhere in Bali. It seems anyone who owns a car is a taxi driver in their spare time. Just try walking more than 10 feet on one of Ubud's main streets without having to decline a taxi offer. In hindsight, while this was sometimes annoying, its probably not a bad complaint. 
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We checked into our first Ubud hotel, Puji Bungalows to which I was especially looking forward. I had booked a particularly nice room upstairs overlooking the neighbouring rice fields - how very Bali. Of course, our luck - apparently having taken its own holiday in recent days, meant that management had given our room to someone else (despite the fact that we were paying extra). They offered us a ground-floor room! We argued, but in the end settled due to having no other option.
It was fine for the 2 nights we stayed, but I encourage you to imagine for a second having a ground floor room in the middle of a rice field....at night! We had company in our room for the entire 2 nights; ants, beetles, mosquitoes, and an entire family of geckos who liked to chat across the room with each other all night. Who knew geckos were so loud? It's a bit disconcerting when the noise is coming from under the bed I can tell you! Also Cian spent lots of time outside, iPad in the air, walking around the rice field trying to pick up Wifi...to no avail obviously!
Sacred Monkey Forest, Ubud
The setting was lovely, shaded from the hot sun by the surrounding tall, leafy trees, we walked past mossy statues, small temples and a holy spring. There were hundreds of monkeys, some with new babies clinging on to their bellies, walking all over the paths, sitting in stairways as if on guard, swinging from vines and jumping onto the backs of tourists. We walked for a couple of hours around the forest, gingerly avoiding the more aggressive looking monkeys who were not shy about displaying their long fang-like incisors. 
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After a not so great night's sleep (the ants are the worst, they get everywhere), we decided to check out Ubud's number one attraction - Sacred Monkey Forest. Monkey Forest is exactly what it says on the tin, a forest teaming with monkeys. We had read (and heard, thanks Karen & Mags) horror stories about aggressive monkeys and worse still, monkeys who are trained to steal tourists belongings. We arrived well prepared bags locked, pockets empty, no hats or sunglasses....and NO BANANAS!
They seem to enjoy fighting each other and growling indiscriminately. That said, plenty of staff everywhere, kept both monkey and tourist very safe. After a while we began to relax and sat for a rest on one of the footpaths. Low and behold that is when the monkeys struck. One jumped from a tree onto my backpack, another took a hotel business card out of the front pocket of his bag. They are very clever little things. Sitting on our laps, the monkeys quickly began riffling through our pockets. One tried to pull the zip open on my bag and another opened the velcro on his combat pocket and checked inside. We took a few photos and said our goodbyes because by midday the place was so full that there were more tourists than monkeys in Monkey Forest. 
Ubud Market
Having long held intentions of on buying some Balinese sculptures, we headed next to Ubud's central market for a few hours. Shocked by its size, the market seemed to weave and extend for miles. Inside, outside, upstairs, downstairs, in the main square, down the lane ways. There were stalls everywhere. There is no point visiting Ubud market unless you can haggle. The starting price quoted on items is generally about 70% more than the vendor will actually accept. Luckily for us, the Balinese are a lot quicker to drop their price than the Vietnamese so we were well practiced and in a good position. 
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We were looking for particular items, he wanted a sculpture (in wood or bronze) of Ganesh, the Hindu God of wisdom and success, and I a wooden carving of Vishnu, the Hindu Supreme God. This made it somewhat easier to get around without appearing to be browsing aimlessly. Turning to walk away is the best method of getting a fairer price, after a step or two they shout after you with a much lower price and you can negotiate from there (Sometimes you might need to walk away a few times...). 
Although it took us a couple of hours, we did find what we were looking for (along with a few other things - no surprise there) and we did get them all for more than 70% off the asking price. A good day of shopping had by all!
Honeymoon...but not what you think! Ubud
After a few days of feeling like nothing was going quite right for us in Bali, we decided to cancel previously booked budget accommodation and we checked into a 'nicer' i.e. more expensive but totally gorgeous hotel in Ubud, and started to regroup. The Honeymoon guesthouse run by the Casa Luna group is a stunning hotel with amazing sculptures, art and architecture displayed throughout. Our suite had a private terrace overlooking a lily pond, a four poster bed and beautifully carved wooden double doors leading into both the suite itself and from the suite to the bathroom. The guesthouse features its own pool, restaurant, bar and yoga studio. Everything that one needs for beating the blues! We were blessed to have found it and the staff were lovely. To be honest, it was one of the highlights of our trip to Bali. Check out the decor...it was like a mini castle.
Within a few hours we were negotiating with a driver for 4 days of sightseeing around the entire island of Bali.We negotiated a price of 1.2 million Rupiah for 3 half days and one full day (9am-5pm) of sightseeing. It was below the average price we had been quoted for each individual trip and required our driver to take us from South to North Bali and back. We were very happy. Our driver, Wayan, a gentleman in his late 50s was very well dressed and very mannerly. He was happy to answer our many questions about Hinduism, Balinese ceremonies and rice growing. He drives carefully (which is a blessing after the drivers in Kota, Borneo) and he always pays for the car parking himself. I think we hit upon a gem!
Leaving at 9:30am on our first day of sightseeing, Wayan brought us to the 'nearby' sights. We had chosen an Itinerary of - Elephant cave (Goa Gajah), Gunung Kawi, Tirta Empul, a Balinese coffee plantation and the Tellegangang rice terraces. On the map they all looked pretty close together so we had anticipated being back in our hotel for 2pm. We hadn't quite appreciated the nature of temple sights in Bali. Each one requires a pilgrimage type struggle to get to. 
Goa Gajah, Ubud
We started with Elephant cave which was the closest sight to Ubud and the easiest to reach. After descending into a shallow valley we came across a series of Balinese style shelters, a fountain with statues of ladies pouring water into a fish-filled pond and of course the cave itself. As we entered the site (having purchased our tickets before of course), we were greeted with a friendly, 'hello, how are you doing today, where are you from'. We chatted for a minute as our new "friend" told us a little of the history of Elephant cave. 
Elephant cave was discovered in 1956 on the site of an elephant cemetery. Inside the cave is a very short narrow passage way with hollowed out platforms along the side walls, used to this day by local people for meditation. Of course, within 3 minutes he was looking for 250k rupiah for a 'tour'. He got very sour when we declined, you could tell he was sorry he told us anything about the cave at all. We ploughed on, snapping photos. It was a nice place, lovely carvings and we tried our best to take some photos without other visitors in the background.

Gunung Kawi
Our next stop was Gunung Kawi, a lessor visited tourist site. We were trying to avoid the crowds and hoping to hit on a more untainted Hindu site. Our driver warned us that we would need our sarongs (both men and women have to wear sarongs to cover their legs when entering all religious sites in Bali). We put ours on in the car to avoid the copious amounts of women selling sarongs who lined the entrance way. Wayan also told us that this would be a longer stop than the last as it is a longer walk to the site...he wasn't joking.
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 Gunung Kawi is an 11th century temple complex situated at the bottom of a high river valley. To reach the site visitors must follow a cobbled path and 315 stone steps, all the way to the bottom. The steps were steep but had a handrail so I had no problem getting down. Like everyone else who was slowly descending into the valley however, it was impossible to avoid thoughts like "getting back up is going to be torture!"
The descent was beautiful, the best views we had seen in Bali so far, rice terraces, palm trees, waterfalls, rivers. The surrounding environment had it all. As we neared the bottom we started to glimpse a large stone wall behind the foliage. This is it. The main attraction at the sight is the 10 rock cut shrines carved directly out of the cliff face. It is said that the shrines are funeral monuments each dedicated to a member of royalty. Each shrine is cut to an 8 meter height and the photos just don't do them justice. It is like something straight from an Indiana Jones movie. 
Adding to the atmosphere is the fact that all around the carvings are long vines hanging from the tropical trees, a rushing river runs alongside the site and the air carries the faint scent of incense. We spotted a woman standing in the river making an offering to the Gods. This was the Bali we had been looking for, finally. We stayed at the site for about an hour and during that time were joined by only a handful of other tourists. It was very peaceful and by far my favourite place in Bali. That said, the climb up 300+ uneven steps in the 32 degree heat was arduous and it's only with hindsight that I can say it was worth it. 
Tirta Empul
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Delighted, we set off next to Tirta Empul, a Hindu temple famous amongst locals for its holy water. For over 1000 years Balinese people have come here to cleanse their bodies in the (icy cold) water of the holy spring which flows through stone sculptures into an uncomfortable pebble floored bathing pool. Many locals also bring a little bottle of this water home with them for family ceremonies. Wanting to do as the locals we brought a change of clothes and set about figuring out how things work. An inscription dates the fountain at the temple to 926 AD. In total there are around 14 sculpted spouts through which the holy waters flow. Locals start at one end, clasping their hands in prayer before bowing their heads under each spout, and finally taking a small drink before repeating this procedure at the next spout and so on. 
After finding the 'changing room' and locker area. We waded into the ice cold bathing pool to follow suit. We walked across the pool, filled with fish, pebbles sore under foot, and bowed our heads below each fountain. Locals didn't bat an eyelid despite the fact that we were clearly the only tourists brave enough to actually get into the pool (many lined the outside with cameras, some dipping a toe and recoiling with the cold).
 After drying off and changing in the communal dressing room, we were lucky enough to happen upon the beginings of a local ceremony in Tirta Empul. Women dressed in brightly coloured clothes, carried offerings in baskets on their heads. Their children, dressed in formal wear followed closely behind. Men wore white and carried large ceremonial iconography on polls. The group we saw was at least 40 large, the majority of whom stopped at a coy pond on the way to the nearby temple long enough so that we could get some great photos! 
Bali Pulina - Coffee Plantation
We had asked Wayan to bring us to a coffee plantation somewhere near Ubud. Kopi in Bali is amongst some of the best in the world and we were intrigued. Greeted by a young guide who casually walked us through the grounds pointing out the many types of plants grown in their organic gardens things quickly got interesting. Ginseng, turmeric, pineapple, coffee trees with their tiny red berries, huge coca trees with pods filled with cocoa beans, we could touch, taste and smell it all. He was even good enough to climb one of the trees and crack open a cocoa pod to let us savour the raw seeds (suck don't chew). Finally he brought us to a clearing with lots of little cages home to 20 or so civets....remember them, little weasel fellas! 
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In Vietnam we tried Luwak coffee (Kopi) which is made from coffee beans once digested and passed (pooped) by the civets. Here we were in a coffee plantation in Bali getting to see the whole process. In the cage with the civet is a bowl of red coffee pods picked from the surrounding plantation. 
The fussy civet eats only the best pods and there on the other side of the cage was the civet dung of pale brown coffee beans. The dung is collected, washed, roasted and used to make the most expensive coffee in the world! Despite the fact that civets are fairly aggressive creatures we found it fairly cruel that the civets are fed so much coffee. As you can imagine, if you drank 20 cups of coffee a day and you had a body the size of a small cat, you'd be pretty wired! The civets were bouncing around the cages non-stop, high on coffee. 
Before we left the plantation we were given a complimentary tasting platter of the 10 types of tea, coffee and cocoa made on site. The teas were delicious, lemon, ginger, ginseng and the coffees were very strong. The tasting hut, built of local bamboo sits atop a steep mountain-side making the tasting so memorable as we sat & sipped overlooking a valley of huge rice terraces, a million shades of green. I had to face my fear of heights to walk across the floating bamboo deck which extends into the valley to take some pictures of the incredible view. Rice terraces must be up there as one of my favourite things in the world I thought as I reached the platform's edge.
Legong & Barong Dancing
After what turned out to be a very long day, we headed back to our guesthouse. Feeling particularly energetic (even after all those steps) we decided to finish a great day by attending a traditional dance performance at nearby Ubud Palace. We went for an early dinner and walked to the Palace in the cool Ubud evening air. It is a beautiful town really, mini temples and statues everywhere, really great food and a very romantic atmosphere. 
We arrived around 40 minutes early to find a crowd already gathering in the front rows. We grabbed a last couple of front seats on the raised platform and waited, reading the ancient stories serving as the plot for the nights performance. Darkness settled as an old woman walked around selling bottles of cold drinks from a basin filled with ice and the noises geckos began their nightly call to arms. 
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Listen to the Musicians above
The Legong and Barong dances are traditional Balinese styles which originated as 19th century royal entertainment. Legong dancers are young girls around the age of 12. They start rigorous training from the age of 5 and are highly respected by locals due to the complicated nature of the dance. Legong dancing is expressed using intricate finger & eye movements, facial expressions and footwork. Some of the dancers were on stage for more than 15 minutes at a time requiring immense strength. The setting was magical with a lit up Ubud Palace surrounded by the clear night's stars as the music performed by a live traditional orchestra weaved amongst the rapt onlookers.
Check out Bali part II for the rest of our adventure...

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KL, take two!

7/6/2015

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Stop Ten, Putrajaya & KL (15/06/2015 to 18/06/2015)
(Written by Us)
We flew from Brunei Darussalam to Kuala Lumpur for a 3 day layover before our pre-booked flight to Bali. Of course we weren't going to waste three days in this fab part of the world again. So with a second bite of the cherry we set off...
Sleeping outside KL centre this time we had to make our way to the city via the express train from nearby KL airport. No hardship with this excellent service and we were soon in KL Sentral station again, a short taxi ride from our first stop. KL boasts the largest aviary in the world with over 200 species of Asian birds living together beneath a giant 1.5 km sq net! 
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It's like something straight from a Jurassic Park movie as you walk around past waterfalls and lakes under this massive enclosure. Most of the birds are allowed to freely roam the enclosure including peacocks, pelicans, flamingos etc. Only the more dangerous or rarer birds are kept on a tighter leash  including eagles, owls and two small puffins. 
The parrots are also semi-separated, particularly the small ones which visitors are allowed to hand feed with cups of milk. Only one of us braved the possibility of bird poop. For the aquatic birds there is a striking waterfall which cascades down into a large carp filled plunge pool below. Apart from the large water fowl at all this man-made water feature is spectacular in its own right. We got plenty of photographs of the birds on their own but trying to get a selfie with an Asian gull is more difficult than you would think. We are triers though. Birds are not the only wildlife to be seen at the aviary. 
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Plenty of mischievous monkeys living in the surrounding park lands are always on the lookout for some extra food or attention. Just as herself had finished taking some photos with the larger trained birds a monkey darted across their path causing a torrent of squawking, flapping and bowel emptying. "The birds no like the monkeys" the handler told us as herself breathed a sigh of relief, seconds away from needing a change of clothes. 
We felt like we had walked for miles by the time we made our way out of the searing heat into the souvenir shop. From the bird park we grabbed the free GoKL bus to the Pavilion shopping centre where we planned to go to the cinema. It is an experience in itself going to the cinema in a foreign country but of course KL doesn't do cinemas like everyone else. The Gold Screen Cinema on the Pavilion's 6th floor offers guests the option of the "Gold screen" showing.
 A small theatre with seating for a maximum of 40 people, luxurious soft leather auto-reclining seats complete with fresh blanket and a good 4 feet from the viewer next to you. Of course it doesn't stop there, a gold ticket allows you access to the golden lounge, a spacious, private popcorn & chocs shop where you deliver your order to staff but carry nothing into the theater with you. At a moment of your choosing during the film you simply press the "for service" button every seat is equipped with and behold, your order appears within seconds from the polite usher. 
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We went to see the new Jurassic Park movie (herself was mad to go), in truth it was probably only okay but when you are watching dinosaurs, lying in your ultra-soft red reclining lounger from behind your blanket, with snacks on the way, it felt like the best flick we had seen in years. We even stopped noticing the Malay subtitles within the first 10 minutes. The ticket was pricey but worth it for the experience this once. I'm not sure we'd frequent Gold Class if it popped up in Limerick! This doesn't seem to be a problem in wealthy Malaysia as the Gold Class screen was almost full with couples and families with young children!
Although the legs were feeling a bit weary, we didn't want to miss out on the awe inspiring Hindu temple just off Jin Petaling, China town. The reason I say awe inspiring is because I know of nothing else like a Hindu temple. As much as the Chinese Buddhist temples are themselves unique, inspiring and spectacular, we had no frame of reference at all for Hinduism and setting eyes on this temple for the first time, it looked like something out of a fairy tale. Above the double-height entrance way was a tall thin pyramid reaching into the night sky, covered in small stone figures depicting Hindu "Gods", the devas and characters and animals from Indian legend. 
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On either side of the crowded pyramid, along the brow of the roof were yet more figures from the Hindu scriptures. The building's exterior was extremely busy, detailed and wonderfully distracting. The sort of picture one could stare at for days and still spot nuances never noticed before. There are no shoes allowed in the temple but helpfully there was a shoe rack service provided where visitors and worshipers can store their sandals for RM 0.20 which is about €0.05. There was a woman in full Indian dress begging at the entrance and I was happy to make a small donation while encouraging her to pose for a photograph.

Inside the temple walls the area is open plan. The surrounding walls are simple and functional extending to a large rectangle. Facing the main entrance is a large raised marble platform which is sheltered by an ornate flat roof supported by a series of large pillars. 
The platform is open on three sides with only one wall at the far end. A wide walkway leads all the way around the platform and on the external of each pillar and along the outside of the far wall beautiful statues of the many Hindu Gods are displayed. Some Hindu men walked around together wearing white sarongs, bare chested with bindi style decorations on their foreheads. They seemed deep in conversation about the finer points of Hindu scripture but of course they may also have been talking football.
To the right of the platform along the walkway there were three well-to-do looking Indian women providing free food to anyone who wanted some naan with dahl. Hinduism teaches that selfless work purifies consciousness and works out negative karma. As such Hindus of all backgrounds and status will make time regularly to volunteer at the temple in this way. This practice can be seen on a massive scale in the Golden Temple in Northern India where 100,000 people are fed for free every day by volunteers. Around many of the statues hung chains of different coloured fresh flowers. We had seen these flowers for sale along some of the streets of KL and now we could see where these offerings ended up. Walking back out into the night sky to collect our sandals we felt refreshed and impressed with the equality, charitableness and openness of this colourful belief system.

Putrajaya

The following day, on the recommendation of our friend Dee O'Riordan (thanks Dee), we headed for Putrajaya, in particular, we wanted to track down Cruise Tasik and take a boat out on the lake. Putrajaya lies just 30 minutes south of Kuala Lumpur. A planned city with construction beginning in the early 1990's the city is named after KL's first Malaysian Prime Minister, Tunku Abdul Rahman Putra. 
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In Sanskrit "Putra" means Prince and "Jaya" means success. In 1999 many of KL's government departments re-located to Putrajaya to ease congestion in the country's capital. The city is functional and somewhat austere in it's aesthetic, particularly when compared to its bigger brother up the road. But the city is not without its charms and the mosque and parliament buildings overlooking the river provide very worthwhile sights (particularly on a cruise). Our boat was a small, wooden traditional replica, fitting up to 4 passengers. English speakers were are harder to come by here but a leisurely sail along the river between Putrajaya's main bridges is a cure for most travel ailments.  
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31 Hours in Brunei

7/1/2015

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Stop Nine, Brunei Darussalam - 14/06/2015 to 15/06/2015
(Written by Him)
The tiny Emirate of Brunei Darussalam takes up just 1% of the island of Borneo, surrounded on all sides by Malaysian Borneo apart from its coast line. Brunei has always been a little different and throughout history has invariably gone its own way in terms of national decision making. At one point Brunei's control extended across the entire island of Borneo and even into parts of the Philippines. In the 1960's Brunei resisted invitations to join neighbouring Sabah & Sarawak in forming the new country of Malaysia. The Sultan decided Brunei should remain independent and in 1984 Brunei finally achieved complete autonomy (including from the UK, those guys went everywhere). Unlike Malaysia, Brunei continues to retain ownership of its oil & gas resources which has resulted in a very wealthy country and a very happy half-million population. 
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The plane journey from Sabah to Brunei took only 30 minutes but to travel by land would have taken a day and cost considerably more. Brunei has a strict Islamic culture with no alcohol or tobacco sold within its borders and restaurants required to close during the days of Ramadan. As you might imagine visitors are screened carefully and we spent the flight filling in health and contraband forms required by immigration at the airport. Frustrating enough you might say but the crew could not give us pens and we were not allowed to use our tray-tables for the entire flight. Oh, and I forgot to tell you as well as Malay immigration we were subjected to 3 security checks at the airport just to get on the flight (they took my sun screen so expect future pictures to reflect this). We touched down at 9:30 am. 31 hours and counting...
After our fun with Brunei immigration we headed straight to the hotel to check in and drop our bags. The hotel was grand, a bit dated but no problem. There were shops and services within the large block so we were already making dinner plans. Brunei is small but it is even smaller when you consider that much of the country is covered with pristine, untouched rain forest. Add to this the fact that such a relatively wealthy population mostly own their own cars and with alcohol practically forbidden you can appreciate why taxis are very thin on the ground. 
The whole country has a total of 55 taxis not all working at the same time of course. With this in mind it was the bus for us and so at 11 a.m. we grabbed the number 55 heading for the town centre. The 18 seater bus was full when we got on so we had to sit on the extremely hot panel above the engine, beside the "automatic" doors which were tied with a piece of string to keep them closed as we bumped and swerved through suburban Brunei.
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From the central bus station in Brunei's capital city, Bandar Seri Begawan (BSB), we made our way to the waterfront. Without a plethora of tourists bustling about the boat tour purveyors were out in force for our attention. In need of a short break to catch our breath we headed for one of only two shopping centres.  A souvenir and a coffee later we were familiar with another new currency, had a grasp on our bearings and a rough plan for the rest of the day. 
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Ready to get after it we stepped out in the direction of Omar Ali Saifuddien mosque. Clearly visible from a distance we made our way towards the towns most famous landmark, taking pictures as we went. Without warning the sky over us (and the mosque) opened and a torrential downpour descended on BSB. We stood with the locals beneath the shopping centre awning watching grey clouds roll in ominously around our first attraction. It took almost an hour for the rain to pass. Some of us were more prepared for the rain than others...cough!
By 1.30 p.m. the weather had broken enough for us to push on. We gingerly made our way up the now treacherously slippy, marble steps of this awesome building. Well used to tourists we were greeted by an usher type person who directed herself towards a rack of floor length robes she would be required to wear along with her hijab. No shoes, cameras or bags are allowed in the mosque itself so we proceeded without them, ironically feeling more naked than usual. The mosque interior, as the others we have seen, was lavish and beautiful. 
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Huge in size, with ornate stained glass, gold leaf and trim, brilliant white ceilings and of course the iconic 24 carrot gold dome atop. Unlike other mosques however this one had a designated tourist area. From the door a large square of brown carpet was laid over prayer mats, hemmed in on all sides with red ropes. A small sheet of paper explained how the mosque had been restored in 1994. Coming out we spoke with the usher for a few moments before heading left to the outdoor wash area adjacent. 
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Worshipers would sit here on tiny plastic stools next to rows of taps and wash their hands and feet before entering the mosque to pray. The centre pool was surrounded by large pillars, again beautifully tiled with framed views of the gold dome through the gaps. Beyond the wash area, along a winding path over the surrounding waters of the lagoon the city had built a model boat. 
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Climbing to the small second level we found a platform which offered visitors the perfect vantage to take photos with this magnificent building. As we left herself was grabbed by a group of middle aged Muslim women for a photograph. She later said there were hands all over her so see how many you can spot in the photograph. 
With the clouds over BSB still threatening and mist in the air we made our way along Jalan Sultan towards the Royal Regalia Museum. The museum is really a tribute to the Sultan himself and houses life sized sections of parades complete with massive gold chariot and troops of uniformed mannequins set out in long rows. The displays are spectacular and certainly nothing we have seen before indoors. There are also some fine artefacts surrounding the foundations of this unique country including its treaties with America and the UK. Once again cameras were only allowed in part of the ground floor section so we did our best photograph-wise  to capture the good bits. Two other museum firsts for us in BSB, it was completely free of charge and no shoes allowed. Yes, all shoes had to be left in racks outside the door and slippers worn inside. It turned out to be no great hardship and the carpets were in excellent condition!  
It was now 4.30 p.m. and raining hard. A quick stop at the post office and it was on to the Chinese Buddhist temple near the bus station for a nosey. We didn't spend too long here having seen many similar temples in Vietnam however we arrived just as an incense ceremony was being completed by a Chinese girl in heels and a mini-skirt. It was an unusual sight and such a diversification from the norms of the nearby mosque we had visited earlier. From there with the rain starting to comedown again we headed across the short, pedestrian bridge and into the market. We had hoped to see this place in full swing but between the weather and the lateness of the hour almost all the stalls were closed apart from a woman selling off her last veg to a few workers on their way home. We decided we would have to make time to come back in the morning. At 5.30 p.m. we grabbed the 55 bus through a scrum of waiting passengers back out to our hotel and a well deserved dinner.  
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Back at the ranch we went to the supermarket first to replenish some items. It was like a little taste of America except with fresh veg as well. The aisles were very wide and the shelves stocked with all the brands. I bought some meat pies for the following days breakfast as our strict hotel budget did not allow for such perks. Given Brunei's wealth it is a more expensive tourist destination. After that we headed for dinner. Chinese was the choice we made. We had been looking for some good dim sum since Vietnam and while I am always interested in the local flavours we had eaten plenty in Sabah to satisfy my Borneo cuisine curiosity. The food was excellent and very reasonable. No surprise then that on this Sunday night the place was full of local Chinese-Brunei leaving us as the lone Western contingent of this 50 seater dinning room. A skype call back home and some planning for the next day saw us in bed at 10 p.m. 12 hours & 30 minutes in Brunei down already!
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Up at 8:00 a.m. on the morning of day 2. We were flying at 4 p.m. and needed to be at the airport for about 2 p.m. We checked out of our hotel at 9 a.m. arranged a cheap shuttle bus to the airport for 1:45 p.m. and checked our bags into hotel storage (dizzying). Straight across to the bus stop we were back in the centre of BSB for 10 a.m. Today we had planned to re-visit the market and take a trip up the river to see some of the sights and more importantly the wildlife among the pristine rain forest for which Brunei is so famous. 
Proboscis monkeys as you will no doubt be aware by now since you have read our Borneo blog right....(of course you have) are native only to Borneo and can only be seen in the wild here. The ultimate aim for any visitor when they take a water taxi ride in Brunei is to see a proboscis in the wild. We got our wish...barely! After negotiating a price for our trip we set off. The speed boat alone was good fun and as we headed towards the deeper forest we passed the Royal Palace, royal  jetty, royal mausoleum and of course the mosque, clear and unobstructed from our mid-river viewing point. 
After about 20 minutes and a little searching we got our wild monkey. High up in the bare branches of a tree overlooking the length of the river, a large male sat watching us as we slowly approached. There was little need for stealth as he had seen us long before we spotted him. The guide told us these monkeys were very shy and sure enough at first sight the monkey moved uneasily and tried to turn his back to us. 
Our boat slipped further into the group of trees underneath him. At this he began to swing slowly across the branches, climbing higher and then swinging again always in the direction of the dense greenery lining the banks of the river. With a slight pause he leaped a clear 5 to 10 feet across landing heavily in the bushes and disappearing from sight. It was a fantastic, once off experience and made the boat trip and Brunei stopover worth every effort. Just as well really because despite our best efforts we didn't see a single other monkey for the rest of the trip. 
There was a lot of fun in searching though and our guide brought us into some very dense forest areas completely hidden from the main river. Before we even saw the monkey we knew we wanted more time on the river so we extended our hour shortly after setting off. Despite the lack of monkeys we did see a huge monitor lizard sunning himself on a branch above the water. We were able to get extremely close to this fella without too much trouble. 
For the extra half hour we sailed in around the enormous floating village. Having a population of 15,000, 3 primary schools, a police station, a fire station, a doctors clinic and of course its own mosque this was an impressive, space saving set-up. Our guide, himself a resident of the village also pointed out some new, two storey houses, built by the Sultan and distributed for free to those in need of housing. 
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Back on dry land and now 30 minutes behind schedule we headed back to the market where things would hopefully be a little more lively than the evening before. The market was much like any other. There were some curious foods on sale, the cured fish head was quite pricey and the choice of dried fish was surprisingly extensive. The guide book had said small monkeys could be found in the trees behind the stalls but like their probiscus cousins they too were attending the all day monkey summit somewhere out of our view.
 I did ask one little old lady, Rokio (likely spelled wrong) for her photo and she bashfully agreed but demanded to approve the snap before letting me leave.
Back on the bus we reached the hotel at 1pm. 45 minutes to spare we grabbed a quick coffee next door to our hotel. This turned out to be a great find. Not only was the teh tarik great but the Chinese-Brunei owner had spent some time in Australia and so her English was perfect. Taking full advantage we asked her all the questions about Brunei that we wanted in order to understand this Sultan lead government. Basically the Sultan is the boss, President, Prime Minister, Minister of Finance and Minister for Defence all rolled into one. Appointed on a lineage basis the Sultan does not require any particular qualifications and there is certainly no voting in Brunei. The Sultan will pass laws with little or no debate and while he does have an advisory council of about 15 men, the Sultan appoints each one of them (and no doubt fires them). He made an amendment to Brunei's constitution in 2006 making himself infallible under Brunei Law. He has also appointed himself Inspector General of the Brunei police force. 
The Sultan of Brunei as you may have guessed is a most unique character. Sultan Haji Hassanal Bolkiah Mu'izzaddin Waddaulah ibni Al-Marhum Sultan Haji Omar Ali Saifuddien Sa'adul Khairi Waddien (full name) has been the Sultan since 1967 when he was just 21. He took over from his father as the eldest of his siblings. Among the wealthiest people in the world in 2008 Forbes estimated his net worth at $20 billion. Educated at the Royal Military Academy Sandhurst UK, an Honorary General in the British and Indonesian armed forces and knighted by Queen Elizabeth, Brunei and particularly the Sultan enjoys close ties with the UK. 
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The Sultan's official residence can only be seen from the river (as we photographed) and has almost 1,800 rooms including 257 bathrooms and houses several government departments. It is considered the world's largest private residence, open to the public just 3 days per year. The dome which tops the palace is plated with 19 carat gold.  
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The Sultan has been married 3 times and has 5 sons and 7 daughters. His first wife was an air hostess whom he divorced in 2003. She was recently embroiled in court battles in England over gambling debts of well over a million lost in London casinos. He went on to marry a Malaysian TV presenter in 2005 33 years his junior. The Sultan is now married to his first cousin. As you might expect the Sultan has a taste for the finer things including owning a 24 carrot gold coated Rolls-Royce and flying his own Boeing 747-400. He also has a rather large car collection of between 3000 and 4000 cars with more than half being left to rot and fall into disrepair. The Sultan also smokes Gurkha Centurion cigars commissioned specifically for him. But we think he's fantastic and if he was ever wanting to hang-out or lend a few dollars we're here for ya!
Despite what on the face of things might appear to us democracy lovers to be nothing more than a corrupt dictatorship, the people of Brunei are very happy with this system. Unlike cities like Dubai and Abu Dhabi, the countries wealth is not displayed through lavish skyscrapers and luxury hotels, instead, the wealth is dedicated to improving the standard of living of the half million locals living in Brunei. They pay no tax, no health / dental expenses, they receive a salary for attending college along with numerous funds to travel abroad for study. Housing and land is provided to Brunei citizens with relative ease and with the ban on alcohol, crime, traffic accidents and poverty stats are all very low. As we hopped on the airport shuttle we left wondering where can we sign up...
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